Working DIY O2 Sensor Plugs.

Done a good mod that people might want to copy? Post it here - full step-by-step instructions and pix.

FAQs can go in here too
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TheJoker
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Working DIY O2 Sensor Plugs.

Postby TheJoker » Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:03 am

This post is about how to create O2 Sensor Eliminator Plugs. It is a "tidied up" version of this long thread over here: http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7311 started by Sam.

Thanks to these guys - in no particular order.
Sam - You sparked it all. Thanks! (No thanks for forgetting the K after 1000 ohm ;) ;) )
cat - You've been a huge source of information and support. And found the plugs at Eastern Beaver.
Plipton - For letting me know that the PCIII map in his bike doesn't actually change the fuelling that much.
vertigo66 - For information and testing the PCIII plugs without the PCIII
bigash - Also for information on the PCIII plugs without the PCIII
pulcinella - THANKS for confirming that the resistor is 1M Ohm and not 1K Ohm! This was the clincher!
jehadjoe - For being who he is. :)

Why should you do this?
To cut a long story short. The LC8 engine is designed to conform to EU (and other countries) exhaust regulations. Therefore somewhere around the 4,000 rpm the engine tries really hard to please the politicians and the tree-huggers. The O2 Sensors are there to allow the engine to work in, what's called, Closed Loop. This means that the ECU reads the input from the O2 sensors and then adjusts the fuelling to be as hippy-friendly as possible. Sadly this doesn't seem to work well. It results in the bike being jerky and quite unpleasant to ride. Try riding at 30mph (50km/h) in 2nd gear. Should be around 3,000 rpms at a steady throttle and you'll see that it can be quite a daunting task.
There's an upside to this. The bike can only go into Closed Loop when a certain factors are all present. If it can't go into Closed Loop mode, it'll use the fixed fuel maps created by KTM. These maps don't change on a whim (or based on a low cost second rate component such as the narrow band O2 sensors). The bike runs really well on the fixed fuel map. Therefore the trick is to prevent the ECU going into the Closed Loop mode. The O2 plugs are the answer to this.
But... won't this pollute the world..?! Not really. The bike runs the predefined fuel maps above about 4,000 rpms, and below when the engine isn't warm (and that's when it's spitting out the msot emissions anyway). Therefore you'll lose a bit of green-kudos, below about 4,000 rpms when the engine is hot. Otherwise the emissions are the same.

Alternatives
You can buy the PowerCommander III and use the plugs from that package. Or you can get just the plugs. They're USD15 in USA, and GBP37 (+ P&P). To me, this was an unacceptable price.

The Plugs.
There's four wires on the O2 Sensor. Two white, and a grey and a black one. The white ones are for the O2 Sensor Heater. These two wires should be replaced with the 330 Ohm resistor. The grey and black ones are for the O2 Sensor's output - i.e they tell the ECU what's going on. These two wires needs to be replaced with the 1M Ohm resistor.

The Material.
The most essential stuff is the four resistors. You'll need two of 1W 1M Ohm resistors and then two of 3W 330 Ohm resistors. There's a large chance that you can use lesser wattage resistors too, but I've not tried them. The 1M Ohm resistor could possibly go down to 0.25W, and I'm fairly sure it can be 0.5W. I've tried 0.25W for the 330 Ohm, and they got very hot, but didn't fry. 0.25W might work, 0.5W should be better, 1W probably even better, and the 3W I'm using is getting warm, but not too hot. Let me know what you try and how it works! I got my resistors from CPC http://cpc.farnell.com/fixed-resistors and Farnells http://uk.farnell.com/browse-for-products in UK. They're the same company, but Farnell has got a minimum order of £30, whilst CPC butt-rams you with a handling fee of £6 or something.
Then you might want some plugs. I got mine from Eastern Beaver. Order two of "4P090WP-MT Connector" from here: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pro ... sm-mt.html If you feel clumsy, get an additional set of "Connector and Pin Set", number "FM090WP Kit". Whilst you're at it, get some of that amazing heat shrink tube that's got glue on the inside of it. It'll make nice waterproof connectors everywhere.
To make mine (well Mk II) pretty, I used some (non-glue) heat shrink tube.

How to assemble it.
If you want to go the cheap and perhaps unreliable way, just get the resistors and stick them into the connector at the bike. Something like this:
Image
Then tape it up, and "Done!"
If you want to be cheap, but a bit more reliable, and you don't care about the original wiring loom on the bike, cut the freakin' cables and solder the resistors on.
If you want it all to look a bit "factory" then you'll get the plugs too, some heat shrink, and you assemble them something like this:
Image
At the bottom is Mk I, which I will probably redo so it looks like Mk II. The parts at the top are. The plug, with pins and seals. Then there's the 3W 330 Ohm resistor with some heat shrink on it. Then there's the 1W 1M (that's 1000K) Ohm resistor and some heat shrink to go over it.
Image
Heat shrink it all on, and then stick the seals on. Should look like this.
Solder on the connectors, and it should look something like this:
Image
NOTE: if you have a real crimper too, or just some luck, you might be able to simply crimp the resistors on. I soldered them for reliability and I have the soldering iron readily available.

Then you need to stick the connector pins into the plug.
Image
And...
Image
The pictures aren't really good as they don't show things "all the way round". However, we'll call the side with the locking pin "the top", and the bottom one, erhm, "the bottom".
The 330 Ohm resistor goes into "the top" (where the white-white cables used to be), and the 1M Ohm resistor goes into "the bottom" (where the black-grey cables used to go).

Mounting on the bike.
You'll locate the front cylinder's connector behind the coolant expansion tank. To do that (on my 2008 SDR) you'll need access. Remove the tank shrouds, both of them. Take the seat off, and the seat-holder that's near the back of the tank. Then undo the tank-holding bolt and lift up the tank and prop the tank up a bit (30cm should do it). Make sure you don't have too much fuel in the tank as it'll start dripping out. Then you can see the expansion tank, undo the two holding bolts and unclip the hose behind the tank. Lower the tank out of the way. It should be safe to just leave it dangling there for a few minutes. Locate the connector that's hiding somewhere between the air box and the frame. Get your girlfriend or an infant to release the connector. Once you've got connectors apart, simply put your new and shiny home made connector on. I taped up the O2 Sensor part, but in hindsight I could have used the male-connector with some blanking plugs (you can get those from Eastern Beaver too). Then I zip tied the O2 cable up like this:
Image
And the new O2 Sensor Plug like this:
Image
The rear cylinder is a bit easier, but you'll have to bend down if you don't have a table. :P Take the battery cover - the front cowl behind the front wheel - off. On the SDR that's fastened with a bolt on each side, and then the two screws with 6mm head underneath. Slide it down/forward. On the battery side you need to locate the four pin connector that's got white-white-grey-black wires going towards the rear of the bike. Undo the connector and slide on your new O2 Sensor Eliminator Plug. Again, in the pics I taped up the O2 Sensor Cable, but I should have used the male connector with blanking seals. I'll do that at some point.
Image

Testing
Stick the expansion hose back on the tank, screw the tank into position and start the engine, as normal. You should not get an FI light when you start the bike. The important part is to run the bike till it gets warm, because the ECU will heat up the O2 Sensors and before they're warm, it won't know if they're working or not. Keep an eye on the bike. Give it some throttle once in a while so make sure it gets proper oil pressure and builds some heat.
If your bike is warm enough to start the cooling fan, and you haven't had an FI light blinking, then things are tickety-boo!
The error codes are one long, seven short blinks for the rear cylinder, and one long and eight short blinks for the front cylinder. If you get any or both of these, things didn't work out.

Now all you need to do is to put the tank down, panels on, seat (and holder) on, front cowl on and you're ready to rock.

The Result
What can you expect from this? Well, the engine will be much smoother, much smoother. In fact, this is probably the modification that makes the biggest difference to the running of the engine.

Other modifications you should do.
Balance the throttle bodies. This helped my bike a lot! http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5347
Remove the SAS functionality. This helped quite a bit on my bike. http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7272

And my next thing is to take the TuneBoy kit (http://www.tuneboy.com.au/ http://www.tuneboy.co.uk/) to a Dyno and get the fuelling spot on. :) Oh, and a Motobox at some point. :)

Again, biiig thanks to everybody involved!!
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby pulcinella » Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:15 am

GOOD!!!
:wink: :wink:

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Postby jehadjoe » Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:45 pm

Wow, What an author you are, I hope to reach these lofty heights someday, thanks for the lesson in suggestion.

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Postby mrtoad » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:40 pm

Joker, if the results are as good as you say, this may very well be THE post for all SD and SDR owners. Well done!

Can anyone confirm Joker's findings in terms of rideability? I see a trip to my local Power Commander supplier in my future.
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Postby cjc » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:26 am

Joker - that is a lot of excellent work. By comparison, I am a lazy, ignorant turd. The proof of that is this question: if I just buy the plugs from dynojet, do they easily swap in and out for my O2 sensors so that I can experiment to see which I like better, or is it more complicated than that?

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Postby jehadjoe » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:29 am

Jess... memust say, the Jocke is one (1) fine man he is.

cjc, you are a honest guy, more than any you are.

metinks the plugs, reset and go but who am I anyhow... a no one ... mineral nota.

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Postby TheJoker » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:37 am

Thanks mrtoad!
mrtoad wrote:Can anyone confirm Joker's findings in terms of rideability? I see a trip to my local Power Commander supplier in my future.


I'd really love to see more people trying this out, as I consider my findings being "beta" stage. I won't change back though!! :lol: If anyone's near North Oxfordshire, UK I might be able to provide some (or all) of the materials required, I might even be persuaded to make a set of plugs.

cjc wrote:Joker - that is a lot of excellent work. By comparison, I am a lazy, ignorant turd. The proof of that is this question: if I just buy the plugs from dynojet, do they easily swap in and out for my O2 sensors so that I can experiment to see which I like better, or is it more complicated than that?


cjc; If you (people) live in the US, as you (individual) do, then the USD$15 for the PCIII plugs is close to a no-brainer, but over here, the GBP£37 (~USD$55) is just plain ridiculous.
And, it's really easy once you can access the plug-connectors; Just unplug them and stick the eliminators on. Run the engine till it's warm to test it.
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby TheJoker » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:39 am

jehadjoe wrote:.... but who am I anyhow... a no one ... mineral nota.


You're the almighty Joe! The Thunder Pumpkin Rider. 8)
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby Totto » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:43 am

My bits are all on order , once i get em its test time for me as well , that is if i ever get well enough to ride the bike :(

Its been three months and still no nearer riding a bike :( :( :(

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Postby TheJoker » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:45 am

Totto wrote:My bits are all on order , once i get em its test time for me as well , that is if i ever get well enough to ride the bike :(

Its been three months and still no nearer riding a bike :( :( :(


Totto, chin up! I'm sure you'll heal up good enough!! 8) 8)
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby cat » Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:33 am

Totto wrote:My bits are all on order , once i get em its test time for me as well , that is if i ever get well enough to ride the bike :(

+1, +1, on both counts.

I have the resistors - 330 Ohm 1W and 1 M Ohm 0.5W - so I'll see if those are ok.
The connectors are on the way from easternbeaver.









:x Dynojet can stick their plugs. :x

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Postby mrtoad » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:45 pm

TheJoker wrote:Thanks mrtoad!


I'd really love to see more people trying this out, as I consider my findings being "beta" stage. I won't change back though!!


I'm getting it done on Thursday to my 2008 SD. Will report back.
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Postby Totto » Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:11 pm

Got my connectors/resistors the other day and sorted out all the soldering , then fitted the kit and ran till hot

No fault lights :D :D :D :D :D

Just need for this dizzynes problem to stop so i can actually ride the bike and i will report back the full results

I done the first/second gear mod while i was at the electrics


Many thanks to Thejoker for the how to and very clear instructions !!!

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Postby BASH69 » Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:23 pm

Joker - Good to see all your hard work and hours of misery have paid off for you and im glad the disconecting of the sensors has improved your bike!

As you no i have the original Dynojet 1`s (i was lucky to get em cheap!) and these were fitted to my 2005 SD (Akro`s, Akro mapping, SAS removed, MAR airbox) and after a 15min reset these made no diffrence to the running or smoothness of my bike! I have since had my bike connected up to the diagnostic equipment at a local KTM dealer and had the ECU reset and all sensors etc reset followed by the 15min idle precedure! This resulted in a very smooth bike for approx 1 tank of fuel before returning to its old jerky, snatchy self!

So i gave up in the end and stuck a PC3 on and had it custom mapped, all i can say is THANK GOD for Dynojet!

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Postby mrtoad » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:39 am

mrtoad wrote:
I'm getting it done on Thursday to my 2008 SD. Will report back.


Wrong parts delivered. Watch this space.
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Postby cat » Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:54 pm

I taped up the O2 Sensor part, but in hindsight I could have used the male-connector with some blanking plugs (you can get those from Eastern Beaver too).
...............
Undo the connector and slide on your new O2 Sensor Eliminator Plug. Again, in the pics I taped up the O2 Sensor Cable, but I should have used the male connector with blanking seals. I'll do that at some point.

I think I've figured this out; I couldn't understand. Is this because the O2 sensors - and cables - are still there?

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Postby Totto » Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:57 pm

cat wrote:
I taped up the O2 Sensor part, but in hindsight I could have used the male-connector with some blanking plugs (you can get those from Eastern Beaver too).
...............
Undo the connector and slide on your new O2 Sensor Eliminator Plug. Again, in the pics I taped up the O2 Sensor Cable, but I should have used the male connector with blanking seals. I'll do that at some point.

I think I've figured this out; I couldn't understand. Is this because the O2 sensors - and cables - are still there?



Yes :D

This process only fools the ECU the sensors are still physically in the same place as always !

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Postby cat » Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:02 pm

:D Apparently I failed to supply a link for ss O2 plugs.

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Postby TheJoker » Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:55 pm

cat wrote:
I taped up the O2 Sensor part, but in hindsight I could have used the male-connector with some blanking plugs (you can get those from Eastern Beaver too).
...............
Undo the connector and slide on your new O2 Sensor Eliminator Plug. Again, in the pics I taped up the O2 Sensor Cable, but I should have used the male connector with blanking seals. I'll do that at some point.

I think I've figured this out; I couldn't understand. Is this because the O2 sensors - and cables - are still there?


I can see now that this might have been a bit confusing. What I meant is that you "obviously" plug your newly soldered O2 Plugs into the ECU end of the harness. And thus you're left with two O2 sensors that have cables and a connector. "Obviously" you wouldn't want the cable (and connector) from the O2 sensor exposed to the elements, so I taped mine up to protect it. And, as I said... when buying the connectors from (for example) Easern Beaver you get a male and a female connector. I also bought blanking plugs for these connectors. Therefore I should have used the "left over" male plug and the blanking plugs to make a "replacement" for my tape. 8) 8)
Don't know if that makes any sense as I'm typing this from Nürburg after several beers and some lapping today. Hehehe

I'm also quite baffled about bigash's problems. I don't really understand that. One thing I've done to my bike, though is that I've balanced the throttlebodies... Don't know if this would have an impact....?! I am however very very very very glad the PCIII has worked, and I'm happy to admit that they do work. :D
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby BASH69 » Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:34 am

! of the first things i ever did was balance the TB`s, i do it regulaly now as part of general maintainence and have found since doing them the 1st time they never really gone out sync since! (i think the bikes standard running problems are just because its an earlier bike!?)

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Postby mrtoad » Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:28 am

It works!

I have a 2008 Superduke. A while ago I added the round Akrapovic cans and the related ECU map.

Even after the cans/re-map the bike would still hunt. That is to say it did not like to hold a neutral throttle, particularly between 3750 and 4500rpm. While this was not a problem for my twisty riding routes, it was a bit of an irritation when on "transport" sections in or out of town.

After reading Joker's post I decided to follow suit and see if I could confirm his logical and painstaking approach. Because I have more money than time, I bought the PC plugs, rather than making my own. These were plugged in and the ECU reset with a 15 minute idle. Then I went for a two hour ride.

No hunting. Let me be absolutely clear: NO HUNTING.

What I have now is close to being the perfect motorcycle. (I'd like an under-engine can, to be honest.) The only modifications from stock are the round akras, the associated KTM re-map, and now the PC plugs.

Is the throttle sensitive? Yes, it is. But this absolutely suits the character of the bike and, for me, tuning it out would be like castrating a tom cat.

Joker, thanks for saving me a lot of faffing about. I got straight to the root of the problem and fixed it first go.

Any other guys out there, do this inexpensive mod with confidence. Joker is the real deal.
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Postby cat » Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:10 am

I thought of making labels for mine. Image

I wish I knew someone with one of those label printers. I'll have to do it with paper and tape over it.

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Postby bonehead » Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:13 pm

Your description and work is very interesting.

I would assume that the same logic could be applied to the RC8 (which also hunts quite badly).. Do you have any thoughts on this at all?
I'm not a gynaecologist, but, I'll have a look.

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Postby TheJoker » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:42 am

mrtoad wrote:It works!
.....
Joker, thanks for saving me a lot of faffing about. I got straight to the root of the problem and fixed it first go.


My pleasure! Very glad that it works for you. Remarkable difference, isn'tit. :)

bonehead wrote:I would assume that the same logic could be applied to the RC8 (which also hunts quite badly).. Do you have any thoughts on this at all?


I would definitely give it a try. Most definitely. The engines are very similar, so there's a large chance it might work. And work well if it does too! If you can, try it, and please report back. :)
Abandoned the KTM for an F800GS and mud.

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Postby mrtoad » Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:13 am

TheJoker wrote:
bonehead wrote:I would assume that the same logic could be applied to the RC8 (which also hunts quite badly).. Do you have any thoughts on this at all?


I would definitely give it a try. Most definitely. The engines are very similar, so there's a large chance it might work. And work well if it does too! If you can, try it, and please report back. :)


Yeah, and it's not like it's expensive or difficult. KTM ought to offer them in the Power Parts catalogue! :D

Cynical old me wonders how long it'll be before Power Commander only sells the plugs as part of a kit with a PC? (After all, with the plugs and the Akra map, why bother with the PC and the dyno time?) If they do, could be a nice little earner for some soldering iron wielding type.
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