Body Position Tips

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Minimoto racer
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Re: Body Position Tips

Postby orangecrush » Wed May 31, 2017 11:56 am

I reviewed the GoPro video. I was at max lean at the apex of T-11 and began fueling. So, the rear slipped, and at the angle there was no recovery. Basically I ran out of Talent and tyre. LOL.

I have some Bonamici Rearsets ordered, a replacement T-Rex slider coming, and I am trying to figure out which handle bar I want to go with. I like the LSL Drag Bars that Scuba is using it, but not sure I want to go that far over. We'll see...


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Re: Body Position Tips

Postby PBRnr » Fri Jun 12, 2020 8:49 am

Aphex wrote:When you do this where are you putting your weight?
This is something I've struggled with, I know you get low and to the inside but I'm talking about your actual body weight.
Are you resting all your weight on the inside peg? Wouldn't that cause you to slide more on corner exits?
If I try to weight the outside peg, I end up becoming very stiff because I literally lock my knee into the tank with my techspec sanke skin pads and it feels like a lot of the weight gets shifted to the contact point of my knee and tank.
So what I do now is just sit no the bike with one cheek off, outside foot I have my heel locked into the heel plate, I open up my hips and drop my shoulder into the turn and have the ball of my inside foot on the peg. But for some reason this feels lazy since if I have to move my body I have to pick myself up off the seat and upset the suspension.

only 3 yrs later :lol: ...I think it's easy to confuse body weight for just plain pressure. You're right, weighting the outside peg is what tends to give the rear more traction on exit when you ease on the throttle. A few years ago I took a dirt/flat track school w Rich Oliver where we all rode 250's w knobby front tyres and DS rear tyres. Pressuring the outside peg had an amazing ability to get the tyre to grab traction in the loose; something that may be intuitive to those w lots of dirt XP or upbringing (I don't/didn't). Getting good pressure w your thigh/knee against the tank is good and should feel like you are "locked in" as this will help you to relax your grip on the bars, reduce unnecessary/faulty steering inputs, avoid upsetting suspension thru the turn, let the "bike do what it wants," and fight fatigue over a day of fast riding. When I was slower on the track and not anywhere close to being able to lean the bike over to drag my knee, I was told by instructors to just "assume" the full on racer posture and hang-off position. The problem was that I was hanging off the bike and it felt like when you try to do it with the bike stopped on the kickstand. I wasn't generating enough G's/centrifugal force because of my slow pace to warrant such aggressive positioning, which caused me to need to grip the bars super tight to avoid falling off the inside of the bike. Gradually increasing pace over the years hasn't progressively made my position more aggressive either...GP riders aren't all that far off the bike either, though partly because they have no more room between the bike and track.

A good body position has you connected firmly to the bike from the waist down. I've seen other riders suggest locking the INSIDE heel against the plate, ball of foot on peg, but on the SD's heel plates I've never had luck getting much secure purchase in that position, and found my hip and knee had to reach too far out to be comfortable. My inside foot is light on the peg, allowing my hip and knee to move lightly if I drag the puck. When I was new to track and did get my knee down, I was so stiff w the inside leg that I would land HARD on my puck and grind the sh!t out of them, also preventing me from leaning/turning further in....My outside foot is usually planted on the peg a little back from the ball of my foot, toes pointed straight ahead.

Feeling lazy is a good thing, because maybe you're not overworking/fighting the bike. :)

For track riding, I've been taught to
1. Avoid EVER being in the middle of the saddle
2. Keep the same butt cheek off the saddle if the next turn also warrants having the same body position as the last turn exited
3. If changing sides on the bike, wait until the bike is transitioning over to scoot. Usually make the move "smooth and athletic" as suspension guru Dave Moss states, when the bike approaches 11/1 o'clock position that way you're not leaned over and the shift doesn't take away from traction while leaned over. Pressure goes to the pegs, lift butt just enough to slide over, plant butt, lock in lower body, shift shoulders and upper body to new position. W practice should all take <2 sec.

On the street/canyons where I don't ever drag knee, I may let the inside leg swing out a tad but because I know I'm not fast/low enough to touch the knee down, I mostly keep the leg relaxed and closer to the bike.

Hope my old gloves are still working well for ya!
Always stay a student of something
'08 full fat SDR, akras w headers, charcoal can removed, random carbon bits


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