Those with an RC8

[bic_bicknell]

Not seen this thread before.....interesting reading.

I think that there is more and more of a problem nowadays with the fueling issues on new bikes because of emissions regs. It seems a well accepted fact that the SD suffers from low down fueling issues that come about because of the manufacturers, (not just KTM), need to satisfy regulatory requirements and then it takes all the new owners a few years to sort out the problems their own way - in parallel to the manufacturers working with the fuel injection settings and maps etc. to sort it out too. There are constant factory updates and improvements and each model is better than the last. But the early models - especially the first ones always seem to have issues.

I don't know what the easy answer is. Me.......I'd almost rather go back to carbs, (and ditch the electronics and FI), because they worked well and didn't have all these issues. I know it will never happen though.

[Vortex155]

I agree, carbs on the twin were so much smoother.
Tested a KTM SM990, that was a very good ride, not any lag, not any stall it even was lower on fuel consumption...but it blew out some CO2, I didn't mind.
The FI system on the modern KTM's are quite good but have a tendency to run out of line, that's were TuneECU can provide help.

[Vortex155]

Okay latest update...It was a faulty air sensor.
They changed both but with tune ecu I can notice some difference in reading.

[MrZ32]

oddly enough this is the only forum that i've seen multiple RC8 owners on...

Have any of you in the states had an issue with your RC8 randomly stalling out? I talk to the guys in the UK and very few have had the problem but solve it by doing the 15 min reset.

Anyone else out there had any issues?

not just that but maybe some fine tuning with your tps sensor. As the tps talks directly to your idle speed controller. If the tps voltage reads too high at idle, the idle speesd controller does not know to kick in (as it assumes that because the voltage is higher you must be on the throttle).

As SD taxi just found out... if you fine tune your TPS sensor (manual adjustment) you can have a much smoother vehicle and lose the stalling problem.

[Vortex155]

Mines was reading 0,67volts on closed throtle, duno that is correct to be honest, find it a bit strange that it actually gives output at zero movement.
as seen on picture


can be wrong off course

[gringo]

i got mine back form the dealers after having it in for a week for the stalling issue, all was fine on there computer and they showed me so they went down the mechanical route and still did not cure the problem, then they asked for a new programme from ktm and guess what, there diagnostic programme had a fault in it and thats why it did not pick up anything. bike now back and not stalled since, although when her dropped her off i did send them the details of the tune ecu web...............

had a good hard ride on her on sunday and good to be back

[Vortex155]

stall free for more than 2000km now on the RC8
bike performs well and even stronger then before pulling occasional wheelies and I'm not a stunt jockey.

[blb]

I'm having this stalling problem now. Does anybody know if the TPS voltages are the same on the RC8 as the Superduke?

I'm gonna have a go at sorting this tonight as well as balancing the throttle bodies.

Cheers Chaps

[SDNerd]

I'm having this stalling problem now. Does anybody know if the TPS voltages are the same on the RC8 as the Superduke?

Wish I could answer the question for you, but given the price of the bike, is the Repair Manual CD really that expensive in europe (P/N 3206057)? Its like $40-odd here.

[blb]

I'm having this stalling problem now. Does anybody know if the TPS voltages are the same on the RC8 as the Superduke?

Wish I could answer the question for you, but given the price of the bike, is the Repair Manual CD really that expensive in europe (P/N 3206057)? Its like $40-odd here.

I have looked at the workshop manual and I can't find any reference to TPS values, so asking around here....

[KTM666]

i had a sd but now have the rc8. mine has done it when riding through town and when you pull in the clutch for coming to a standstill or traffic lights sometimes she dies. just seems like the tickover needs to be a tad higher

...On my SD i had this mystrious stalling, I spoke to Kyle (Who was at Sideways KTM now Bob Presslee in Wool) he told me to look under the handle bar clutch lever..there is a thin metal strip the Clutch Switch which can get bent in ...if you bend outwards to make sure that when you pull the clutch in it operates this signals the ECU and changes tick over (i'm pretty sure RC8 is the same) I did this...and like magic....no more stalling issues


See extract from workshop manual below

NOTE: the clutch switch delivers a ground signal to the ECU when
actuated, this function is especially important for the idle speed
control.
– Ground supply (brown cable) at connector AL1.
– Check the wiring from connector AL1 to connector AO for continuity

[blb]

i had a sd but now have the rc8. mine has done it when riding through town and when you pull in the clutch for coming to a standstill or traffic lights sometimes she dies. just seems like the tickover needs to be a tad higher

...On my SD i had this mystrious stalling, I spoke to Kyle (Who was at Sideways KTM now Bob Presslee in Wool) he told me to look under the handle bar clutch lever..there is a thin metal strip the Clutch Switch which can get bent in ...if you bend outwards to make sure that when you pull the clutch in it operates this signals the ECU and changes tick over (i'm pretty sure RC8 is the same) I did this...and like magic....no more stalling issues


See extract from workshop manual below

NOTE: the clutch switch delivers a ground signal to the ECU when
actuated, this function is especially important for the idle speed
control.
– Ground supply (brown cable) at connector AL1.
– Check the wiring from connector AL1 to connector AO for continuity

Thats useful info Nick, i'll have a check of that when I get the bike back.

At the moment its with CW motorcycles trying to sort this problem, at the moment they think it might be a fuel line close to the throttle arm next to the bodies which is fouling it slightly. So this MAY sort the throttle holding open slightly but wouldn't help the stalling would it?

It really frustrates me that dealers seem to disregard the cumulative knowledge of maybe hundreds of KTM forum members and not listen about the TPS.

To me its a safety issue, if it doesn't engine brake properly or it stalls on engine braking its simple. I have very little confidence in this bike at the moment, it feels like its trying to throw me in the hedge all the time!

[Duke of Wrath]

I have a 2010 RC8.I got it used at it runs fine I put a FMF pipe and a remap no stalling problems.My problem is my rear brakes.It came with rizano rear sets
Now I have no rear brakes.The shop is good shop they have replaced the caliper the line and the master cyclinder.On or off the bike they can't make the brakes works.They have tried everything even putting the whole systen on the bench and it would not have pressure on the caliper.
no one can figure this out it has been in the shop for a month. I am bummed I need to get some saddle time so I can get it on the track. Anyone out there have any ideas It should work since everything is new but it will not build prussure.No one at the shop has seen this before Any ideas would be a great help

[Stratkat]

I have a 2010 RC8.I got it used at it runs fine I put a FMF pipe and a remap no stalling problems.My problem is my rear brakes.It came with rizano rear sets
Now I have no rear brakes.The shop is good shop they have replaced the caliper the line and the master cyclinder.On or off the bike they can't make the brakes works.They have tried everything even putting the whole systen on the bench and it would not have pressure on the caliper.
no one can figure this out it has been in the shop for a month. I am bummed I need to get some saddle time so I can get it on the track. Anyone out there have any ideas It should work since everything is new but it will not build prussure.No one at the shop has seen this before Any ideas would be a great help

i think you need to perform an exorcism.

[ktmguy]

I have a 2010 RC8.I got it used at it runs fine I put a FMF pipe and a remap no stalling problems.My problem is my rear brakes.It came with rizano rear sets
Now I have no rear brakes.The shop is good shop they have replaced the caliper the line and the master cyclinder.On or off the bike they can't make the brakes works.They have tried everything even putting the whole systen on the bench and it would not have pressure on the caliper.
no one can figure this out it has been in the shop for a month. I am bummed I need to get some saddle time so I can get it on the track. Anyone out there have any ideas It should work since everything is new but it will not build prussure.No one at the shop has seen this before Any ideas would be a great help

More info needed!? Did it work fine before? Did you use the original KTM master cylinder, how does it fit on the rear sets?
Does it pump oil out the bleed screw properly when you try to bleed it?
Did you use new copper washers when refitting the couplings? Is the push rod alligned straight in to the master cylinder? If not it pushes sideways and leaks.
Is the range the pedal works the same, if it doesn't return enough the piston doesn't move back enough past the "fill" opening in the master cylinder.
Did you tried reverse pressure with a seringe on the bleed nipple to check for any leaks?
Did the seals on the master cylinder got accidentily damaged during assembly?
PM me if needed.

[Lowrance]

At the moment its with CW motorcycles trying to sort this problem, at the moment they think it might be a fuel line close to the throttle arm next to the bodies which is fouling it slightly. So this MAY sort the throttle holding open slightly but wouldn't help the stalling would it?

It really frustrates me that dealers seem to disregard the cumulative knowledge of maybe hundreds of KTM forum members and not listen about the TPS.

To me its a safety issue, if it doesn't engine brake properly or it stalls on engine braking its simple. I have very little confidence in this bike at the moment, it feels like its trying to throw me in the hedge all the time!

Try the BGC...I know th RC8 has one.

[blb]

Thanks Lowrance, first thing I checked! It was a problem on my SD so knew it was potentially an issue on the RC8.

Things have settled down now, with a little luck its all sorted.

I reckon you dream/have nightmares about the BGC!

[Lowrance]

Thanks Lowrance, first thing I checked! It was a problem on my SD so knew it was potentially an issue on the RC8.

Things have settled down now, with a little luck its all sorted.

I reckon you dream/have nightmares about the BGC!

I started having the stalling/high idle (3-4K rpm) problem about 6 months into ownership. Took me 6 months to trouble shoot and sort due to all of the possibilities. TPS, idle servo motor, sync, etc. Was pulling my hair out and just about sold the bike on more than one occasion. Got so pissed I decided I was going to tear the bike down to the frame until I found the issue as everything else I tried had been futile (the dealers were absolutely useless).

Upon pulling the BGC apart I noticed what I thought was moisture. Sure enough (doesn't take much by the way to send your ECU bonkers). Blasted it out with comoressed air to thouroughly dry it and packed (and I mean packed) the connector full of dilectric grease and the problem has been sorted ever since.

All these posters jump on the forum and describe the exact same issues I was having but when I suggest the cause and cure its seems it only gets a passing consideration. They seem to think it's got to be some sort of hard electrical failure. Frustrating for me to say the least as I've been through it.

Oh well, what are you gonna do? Keep screaming until until everyone gets it I guess!

[Duke of Wrath]

I have a 2010 RC8.I got it used at it runs fine I put a FMF pipe and a remap no stalling problems.My problem is my rear brakes.It came with rizano rear sets
Now I have no rear brakes.The shop is good shop they have replaced the caliper the line and the master cyclinder.On or off the bike they can't make the brakes works.They have tried everything even putting the whole systen on the bench and it would not have pressure on the caliper.
no one can figure this out it has been in the shop for a month. I am bummed I need to get some saddle time so I can get it on the track. Anyone out there have any ideas It should work since everything is new but it will not build prussure.No one at the shop has seen this before Any ideas would be a great help

More info needed!? Did it work fine before? Did you use the original KTM master cylinder, how does it fit on the rear sets?
Does it pump oil out the bleed screw properly when you try to bleed it?
Did you use new copper washers when refitting the couplings? Is the push rod alligned straight in to the master cylinder? If not it pushes sideways and leaks.
Is the range the pedal works the same, if it doesn't return enough the piston doesn't move back enough past the "fill" opening in the master cylinder.
Did you tried reverse pressure with a seringe on the bleed nipple to check for any leaks?
Did the seals on the master cylinder got accidentily damaged during assembly?
PM me if needed.

Well it's sorted now.turns out after running the vin # another dealer has 3 work claims for the same issue.I called Rizoma they rang me back the next day.they e mailed the shop the instrustions and it turns out the previous shop had parts on the brake system that the instrustions said to remove.Because of these extra parts it was never going to work. or if it did it would fail again. The shop removed all the wrong parts and now the brakes work fine.I must say Rizoma was great to work with they called me from Italy The USA guy was there.He is going to be back to the states Sat. and said he will go by the shop tues and make sure all is good.Turns out their office is near the dealer. Talk about great cust sevice I am sold It's Rizoma for me from now on. My duke coud use some rear sets if I do the will be rizoma.So all this time it was the other dealer that messed it up.My currant dealer is pissed off they replaced everything for no reason.
so I hope to get it back this wed and have it on the track in march and april. Now I just need a set of rims so I can keep race tyres on them and mount them when I track it.
Thanks for you help
Vic

[Vortex155]

To me its a safety issue, if it doesn't engine brake properly or it stalls on engine braking its simple. I have very little confidence in this bike at the moment, it feels like its trying to throw me in the hedge all the time![/quote][/quote][/quote]

Try the BGC...I know th RC8 has one.[/quote]

Whats the BGC?

[Vortex155]

BackGroundConnector?

the main wiring that plugs all sensors to ECU?

[jambox]

BackGroundConnector?

the main wiring that plugs all sensors to ECU?

BGC = big gray connector. It's located behind the coolant resivoir on the RH side of the bike. It's the connector between the ECU and the throttle bodies.

Well it is on the SD