1290 Rear wheel removal

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abc
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby abc » Wed May 06, 2015 12:29 am

The large rear wheel nut is indeed a right hand thread so you turn it anticlockwise to loosen it. At 250Nm it is not that tight and a decent bar should see it easily done.
If my memory serves me right it is only a 25 kilo weight hanging off a 1 metre bar length, so if your breaker bar is say 1 metre long you should only have to apply 25kilos to the end to apply that torque plus any friction of course. If you have a 12 inch long toy for a breaker bar I suggest you go and find a longer one or add a length of pipe to your original one and you should have more success.
I find the rear nut to be easier to work with when someone is there to hold the bike with brakes on.
Sorry I can't be more help.
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Ian
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Ian » Wed May 06, 2015 1:19 am

No that helped tremendously, as did the post above mine. I will just go and get a 25" breaker bar tomorrow and see how it goes. Good to know it's a standard thread now so I know to turn it left.

Thanks,

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jmann
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby jmann » Wed May 06, 2015 2:45 am

Comrade: I'm almost reticent to suggest this but here goes just in case - you have taken the locking clip out haven't you or there is not part of it still stuck in one of the holes?

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driftkr6l
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby driftkr6l » Wed May 06, 2015 3:01 am

superduke 1290 owners be like...

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Ian » Wed May 06, 2015 4:14 am

yes both clips are out, it's just the nut and I, and it's kicking my ass.

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ktmguy
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Wed May 06, 2015 5:02 am

Ian wrote:yes both clips are out, it's just the nut and I, and it's kicking my ass.


??? :?
Not that hard! It's a 2 person job, one to undo and the other one to hold the rear brake. Get someone to sit on the bike and nail the rear brake.
Make sure the socket is on properly and go for it. Best is to pull down so the tyre grips the floor, otherwise you lift the bike.
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Miki
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Miki » Wed May 06, 2015 8:48 am

Definitely 1 man job if you have prober tools :mrgreen:
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Just set the right foot on the rear brake and little twist. I'm only 70 kilos and can do it easily.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Ian » Thu May 07, 2015 4:25 am

I went and got a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact driver.. Worked like a charm, though I had the torque setting a little too high and it melted the nut a bit. lol I'll just make sure to have a spare around if it ever rounds off too much. :)

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ktmguy
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Thu May 07, 2015 4:37 am

Ian wrote:I went and got a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact driver.. Worked like a charm, though I had the torque setting a little too high and it melted the nut a bit. lol I'll just make sure to have a spare around if it ever rounds off too much. :)


Honest mate, if it's that hard it was done up waaay to hard!
Seems like a classic case of more is better at the dealer.
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Ian » Thu May 07, 2015 4:58 am

Probably was too tight, first tyre change and all. I need an impact anyway, this gave me an excuse.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby murphc13 » Sun Nov 22, 2015 9:31 pm

Sorry to revive this thread lads but I'm struggling with the rear axle nut....the 41mm one!
Rear brake operated...front wheel against the wall!!
1/2" breaker bar with a 3/4" adapter for the 41mm socket....not budging atall!!

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby SD07enthu » Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:36 pm

murphc13 wrote:Sorry to revive this thread lads but I'm struggling with the rear axle nut....the 41mm one!
Rear brake operated...front wheel against the wall!!
1/2" breaker bar with a 3/4" adapter for the 41mm socket....not budging atall!!


Before I got myself the below cordless impact wrench I took the socket with me and rode the bike to a local auto shop, gave the guy $5 and asked him to loosen the nut and tighten it just enough. Again he did not have a socket for that size nut so better carry the socket with you. It is always difficult to break the nut loose if it is the first time. Good luck.

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ma1290rky
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ma1290rky » Wed Nov 25, 2015 11:19 am

murphc13 wrote:Sorry to revive this thread lads but I'm struggling with the rear axle nut....the 41mm one!
Rear brake operated...front wheel against the wall!!
1/2" breaker bar with a 3/4" adapter for the 41mm socket....not budging atall!!



I use one of these...

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... h-60-300nm

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ilmothefinn
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ilmothefinn » Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:48 pm

Well I did it like this: Bike on front paddock stand (while having two ratchet straps connected to rear frame loosely from the ceiling (or whatever support there is available) - in order later to lift the bike), rear wheel still on the floor (or ground):
1) assistant presses the rear brake pedal
2) I set the socket and a half-meter breaker bar to the 41mm nut, tip pointing rearwards
3) I stand behind the rear wheel, leaning right knee to the rear tyre surface
4) I grasp with both hands of the bar and a then, just a controlled (no meaning to grind corners or hurt oneself here) red-neck jerk with back muscles, keeping arms straight... Right knee prevents tyre movement.

Other side is just the opposite, breaker bar tip pointing rearwards (maybe you could do it by yourself from the front, didn't test so, because like to lean on the tyre (so this time w. the left knee) and had the assistant press the brake)...
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby vernonbc » Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:12 am

Finally got my 2 nuts loose :roll: The 60mm was surprisingly easy. I stood on kickstand side of bike, applied front break and loosened the wheel nut with great ease with 25" breaker bar. My guess is that nut was nowhere near torqued correctly on my 2014 1290. For the sprocket side nut I got my brother to sit on the bike and apply both breaks. That nut was much tighter, I had to bounce on the breaker bar and with all the squeaking it finally broke loose.

My question is for torquing the nuts back up. I am aware that it is 200nm dry for both of them (yes new torque is actually 250 for wheel nut). Does anybody know what torque I would use if i were to use grease or anti-sieze on the nut?

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby abc » Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:30 am

the torque spec is specified with the nuts lightly lubricated. Also tapered face on large nut should be done to reduce stiction and inaccurate torque.
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby vernonbc » Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:39 am

Thanks for the info. Took another read in section 13 page 96 of service manual and yes you are correct. Looks like the 200Nm is based on a greased thread and locking agent on the smaller nut on sprocket side. Me bad. It was that one little line that I missed. :oops: Also thanks for the tip on the taper on wheel side. I most likely would have forgotten that one.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby JDSSDR1290 » Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:10 am

Egads. Im sure someone already suggested this but.... Use a impact gun to remove the nut. Then use your torque wrench to tighten it.
Ive owned many Ducs with single sided swingarms. I had a 2' long breaker bar & extension with 2 ppl trying to remove the nut off my 07 1098. The nut wouldn't budge. I borrowed a friends electric impact & spun it off in seconds. That 1098 was bought 2nd hand & I believe the original owner over tighten the nut. Probably never lubricated it as well.
That $189 electric impact gun was a great investment 10 yrs ago.
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Gimlet » Wed Dec 14, 2016 8:04 am

I've got a 1098 as well (Streetfighter). The rear wheel nut is always more difficult to remove than the SDR's. I don't know why. I remove and refit them myself and I know they're the correct torque. I've got a 24 v impact wrench which goes up to 450 nm but I always need to apply penetrating oil to the nut and let it soak in before attempting to undo it or it just won't shift even with the gun. The 1290's spins off instantly.
The only slightly tricky bit with the KTM is getting all the retaining clip holes lined up.

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SpeedyR
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby SpeedyR » Wed Nov 08, 2017 4:32 am

older thread but I just changed the tyres on my 1290 tonight. The rear 60mm nut was a BITCH to get off. I had a neighbor come over and hold the rear brake. I have a 2+' breaker bar and got nowhere with it. I broke out my plug in Dewalt impact wrench and even with that, I had to hold it on the nut for about a minute before it even started to budge. A few smaller shots at it did nothing. I have no idea who put it on there like that, but at 5k miles it still had the OE tyres, so I assume it came from the factory like that.

balanced the new tyres (Angel GT's) and all seems good in the world again. Can't wait to get out and scrub these things in and see how they work.

another note, I used my standard PitBull front stand that has the rubber pads that go under the fork legs to lift the front end. Won't work on the 1290, the pinch bolts were under there. So I dug out of the basement an old attachment I had from years ago that fits up under the lower triple clamp and lifts the bike from there. Had to remove the spacer I had on the pin but fit in there and worked like a charm. Solid and easy to remove the front wheel.

Will be nice to have tyres with tread once again.. :)
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abc
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby abc » Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:03 pm

Seems like i have herd lots of stories where guys can't undo the wheel nut without extreme force. It is usually caused by the two mating tapered faces binding due to heat cycling.
If you lightly grease the threads on the nut and the mating tapered faces on the nut and wheel you will be able to undo the wheel nut without busting your balls and needing heavy machinery like impact guns etc
Of course it would be nice if the factory bothered to do this at assembly - but alas no
Happy playing
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Sarasota_Steve » Wed Nov 08, 2017 5:50 pm

abc wrote:If you lightly grease the threads on the nut and the mating tapered faces on the nut and wheel you will be able to undo the wheel nut without busting your balls and needing heavy machinery like impact guns etc
Of course it would be nice if the factory bothered to do this at assembly - but alas no
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SpeedyR
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby SpeedyR » Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:29 pm

I would think that it would. I bet abc is correct that it's the surfaces of the shaped disk and the washer that are in there that are causing all of the tension and making it hard to remove.

mine is back together now but will put some on there next go around, or when I have a buddy over that can help me with the rear wheel.
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2015 1290 SD-R- full Akra Evo
2007 950 Super Enduro- too much to list..
2007 450XC- tagged dual sport
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby abc » Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:28 am

Any lube will work as long as it is slippery and won't dry out. Even your personal stash of Vaseline will do the job!
You only need the smallest amount over the surfaces so don't go smashing it with the grease gun :?
Drying out is usually not an issue because with only getting a few thousand klms out of a tyre it means that the wheel is taken off regularly enough that the lube doesn't have time to dry out through heat cycling.
Wipe off any excess after assembly and you're good to go…….
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