AZ1290R wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-adjustable-wrench-39621.html
After getting that darned nail in my tyre at a few hundred miles I was happy I had a Harbor Freight Tools store 10 miles away....saved the night, this big wrench easily broke loose the darn nut, seems KTM could have used a different type nut where most people might have the damn size in their toolbox. Very annoying a bike this pricey and you have to deal with this type of jackassery. Once the wheel was off 30 minutes later it's back on with a patched tyre, dead center of tread so I wasn't about to blow a couple hundred on a new tyre. I've gotten cheap in my old age.
ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)
I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.
Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.
Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread
DMacL wrote:Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread
Make your mind up!
Hui wrote:DMacL wrote:Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread
Make your mind up!
"Hui' never mentioned anything about 'patched tyre dead centre of tread'
Do your homework before getting smart.
The reference by me about a damaged side wall was because another guy wanted to know why I may want to remove a wheel while on holiday. Got it ?
What is it about people not getting that some others just want to carry a socket.
Hui wrote:ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)
I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.
Appreciate your instructions on how to carry out a puncture repair. (not required)
I carry a gooey repair kit too, but if the tyre is beyond repair I'm not going to ruin a holiday for the sake of not getting the wheel off.
My wife has a Diavel and the rear wheel nut is 55mm 12 point. I carry a socket for it as well.
3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.
ktmguy wrote:Hui wrote:ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)
I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.
Appreciate your instructions on how to carry out a puncture repair. (not required)
I carry a gooey repair kit too, but if the tyre is beyond repair I'm not going to ruin a holiday for the sake of not getting the wheel off.
My wife has a Diavel and the rear wheel nut is 55mm 12 point. I carry a socket for it as well.
3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.
Only try to help, no need for snarly comments!
You carry a kitchen sink too for washing your hands afterwards?
BTW it's more likely the rear wheel falls of a 1290 with the rotten bearing than sidewall damage!
Hui wrote:ktmguy wrote:
Considering the title is '1290 Rear wheel removal' I don't see how your comments are even slightly helpful. I do get by reading some of your other posts that you just like to argue no matter what.
Aphex wrote:AZ1290R wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-adjustable-wrench-39621.html
Wow, I'm surprised you got if off without rounding it. Isn't it supposed to be torqued to 250Nm (184ft lbs)?
AZ1290R wrote:Normally when I get a puncture I just get a new tyre, but this one was a clean center of tread puncture that I would have confidence with after patching, I would never plug a motorcycle tyre, no way, no how, my feeble body doesn't like flopping about on pavement should that plug decide to piss off.
MacaveliMC wrote:
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol).
ktmguy wrote:
Don't last long getting stuck in the heat 200 km away from a town or petrol station and no cell phone coverage.
lc4 wrote:MacaveliMC wrote:
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol).
Just remember with a right hand thread "Righty Tighty , Lefty Loosey opposite for left hand thread.
MacaveliMC wrote:If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead
That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?
Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)
Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.
abc wrote:MacaveliMC wrote:If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead
That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?
Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)
Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.
The 200Nm specification in the manual has been revised by KTM due to the freeplay in the hub assemblies and is now 250Nm torque spec for the 60mm rear wheel nut. The other revision is 70Nm for the clamp bolt that is used when adjusting the chain tension. You should be using these new torque numbers and not the original figures.
Locking varnish is just a varnish that is designed to be painted onto two parts to stop them from vibrating loose. You dont really need it in this case and even a thick dob of paint will do the same job once it is allowed to dry. Dont stress on this part as its not that important.
To confirm for you exactly which way you undo the large wheel nut - face the nut you wish to undo and put a mark on the top of the nut. When undoing the nut on a normal right hand thread the mark on the nut should turn anticlockwise. When doing up the nut the mark should turn clockwise. For a lefthand thread the opposite directions apply. The large rear wheel nut and the clamp bolt are both righthand threads - Geeeees i'm glad thats over!
For the purposes of keeping things simple you can use almost any grease to lubricate the threads and the faces of the thrust washers prior to doing the wheel nut up to the new specification. Wipe off any excess.
Hope this helps you.
lc4 wrote:KTM Factory rear wheel torque wrench
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