1290 Rear wheel removal

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Hui
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Hui » Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:43 pm

I bought a 60mm 3/4" drive socket, turned all the excess metal off it which made it a fraction of the size and weight without losing any of the strength. Stuck a 1/2 to 3/4 step for garages without bigger equipment into it wrapped it up and keep it under my seat. No problem.
The reason for this is when touring in the Alps/Pyrenees) and something happens and needs the rear wheel removed (puncture etc) Not many garages except maybe HGV repair shops will be able to help. Carry your own socket increases the chances of a repair at any garage/shop.

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AZ1290R
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby AZ1290R » Tue Mar 31, 2015 1:38 am

http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-adjustable-wrench-39621.html

After getting that darned nail in my tyre at a few hundred miles I was happy I had a Harbor Freight Tools store 10 miles away....saved the night, this big wrench easily broke loose the darn nut, seems KTM could have used a different type nut where most people might have the damn size in their toolbox. Very annoying a bike this pricey and you have to deal with this type of jackassery. Once the wheel was off 30 minutes later it's back on with a patched tyre, dead center of tread so I wasn't about to blow a couple hundred on a new tyre. I've gotten cheap in my old age.
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Aphex
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Aphex » Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:11 am

AZ1290R wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-adjustable-wrench-39621.html

After getting that darned nail in my tyre at a few hundred miles I was happy I had a Harbor Freight Tools store 10 miles away....saved the night, this big wrench easily broke loose the darn nut, seems KTM could have used a different type nut where most people might have the damn size in their toolbox. Very annoying a bike this pricey and you have to deal with this type of jackassery. Once the wheel was off 30 minutes later it's back on with a patched tyre, dead center of tread so I wasn't about to blow a couple hundred on a new tyre. I've gotten cheap in my old age.


Wow, I'm surprised you got if off without rounding it. Isn't it supposed to be torqued to 250Nm (184ft lbs)?
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Tue Mar 31, 2015 9:08 am

Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)

I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.
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Hui
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Hui » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:37 am

ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)

I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.


Appreciate your instructions on how to carry out a puncture repair. (not required)
I carry a gooey repair kit too, but if the tyre is beyond repair I'm not going to ruin a holiday for the sake of not getting the wheel off.
My wife has a Diavel and the rear wheel nut is 55mm 12 point. I carry a socket for it as well.
3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby DMacL » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:58 am

Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.


Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread


Make your mind up!

Hui
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Hui » Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:25 am

DMacL wrote:
Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.


Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread


Make your mind up!


"Hui' never mentioned anything about 'patched tyre dead centre of tread'
Do your homework before getting smart.

The reference by me about a damaged side wall was because another guy wanted to know why I may want to remove a wheel while on holiday. Got it ?

What is it about people not getting that some others just want to carry a socket.

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MacaveliMC
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby MacaveliMC » Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:36 pm

If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead :)

That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?

Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?

And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)

Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby DMacL » Tue Mar 31, 2015 5:52 pm

Hui wrote:
DMacL wrote:
Hui wrote:3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.


Hui wrote:]patched tyre, dead center of tread


Make your mind up!


"Hui' never mentioned anything about 'patched tyre dead centre of tread'
Do your homework before getting smart.

The reference by me about a damaged side wall was because another guy wanted to know why I may want to remove a wheel while on holiday. Got it ?

What is it about people not getting that some others just want to carry a socket.


fook's sake, what a dick I am. I do apologise. I can only blame the codeine...

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ktmguy
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Tue Mar 31, 2015 9:39 pm

Hui wrote:
ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)

I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.


Appreciate your instructions on how to carry out a puncture repair. (not required)
I carry a gooey repair kit too, but if the tyre is beyond repair I'm not going to ruin a holiday for the sake of not getting the wheel off.
My wife has a Diavel and the rear wheel nut is 55mm 12 point. I carry a socket for it as well.
3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.


Only try to help, no need for snarly comments!
You carry a kitchen sink too for washing your hands afterwards?
BTW it's more likely the rear wheel falls of a 1290 with the rotten bearing than sidewall damage!
If you don't do anything stupid when young, you have nothing to smile about when old!


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Hui
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Hui » Tue Mar 31, 2015 9:52 pm

ktmguy wrote:
Hui wrote:
ktmguy wrote:Question...why do you remove the wheel to fix a puncture? (While traveling)

I just put the hole at the back, clean the hole with that round file thingy in the kit, fit the gooey stuff with the oversized needle tool, cut the protruding bits off and put 4 CO2 cartridges in.
If needed put some more air at the next servo.
3 min job.


Appreciate your instructions on how to carry out a puncture repair. (not required)
I carry a gooey repair kit too, but if the tyre is beyond repair I'm not going to ruin a holiday for the sake of not getting the wheel off.
My wife has a Diavel and the rear wheel nut is 55mm 12 point. I carry a socket for it as well.
3 minute job with the side wall damaged, my arse.


Only try to help, no need for snarly comments!
You carry a kitchen sink too for washing your hands afterwards?
BTW it's more likely the rear wheel falls of a 1290 with the rotten bearing than sidewall damage!


Considering the title is '1290 Rear wheel removal' I don't see how your comments are even slightly helpful. I do get by reading some of your other posts that you just like to argue no matter what.

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby robertkehl » Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:14 pm

The single sided swing arm stand and the kitchen sink as well. Lol Does anybody make a trailer hitch for the 1290r?
The 1290 is what the 990 was suppose to be.


I ride Ktm Motorcycles, yep :-)

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ktmguy
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:56 pm

Hui wrote:
ktmguy wrote:
Considering the title is '1290 Rear wheel removal' I don't see how your comments are even slightly helpful. I do get by reading some of your other posts that you just like to argue no matter what.


Newsflash: You have 9 posts and you argue in 4 of them... nice average!
If you take an effort and read back you'll see that my posts are mostly technical information and help to people who are not as technical as others.
And you managed to machine a socket down and tell everyone about it.... great job!
If you don't do anything stupid when young, you have nothing to smile about when old!


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AZ1290R
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby AZ1290R » Wed Apr 01, 2015 1:37 am

Aphex wrote:
AZ1290R wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-adjustable-wrench-39621.html



Wow, I'm surprised you got if off without rounding it. Isn't it supposed to be torqued to 250Nm (184ft lbs)?


The nut loosened with hardly any pressure put on the 24 inch gigantic adjustable wrench, as long as you keep the adjusting knob tight with the free hand it stays nice and tight on the nut :mrgreen: Normally when I get a puncture I just get a new tyre, but this one was a clean center of tread puncture that I would have confidence with after patching, I would never plug a motorcycle tyre, no way, no how, my feeble body doesn't like flopping about on pavement should that plug decide to piss off.
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2004 Black Lab mix
2006 American Dingo
2005 Acura TL
35 previous bikes and quads.
Current 2014 SD 1290

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ktmguy
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ktmguy » Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:56 am

AZ1290R wrote:Normally when I get a puncture I just get a new tyre, but this one was a clean center of tread puncture that I would have confidence with after patching, I would never plug a motorcycle tyre, no way, no how, my feeble body doesn't like flopping about on pavement should that plug decide to piss off.


We're talking emergency repairs only.
Happy to plug it as it can mean death or alive here.
Don't last long getting stuck in the heat 200 km away from a town or petrol station and no cell phone coverage.
I'm sure you have similar situations in your part of the world?!

BTW I never had one of these things come out and done it heaps of times and some bike tyres have really not much carcass in them for the plug to grip on.
If you don't do anything stupid when young, you have nothing to smile about when old!


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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby lc4 » Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:59 am

MacaveliMC wrote:
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol).



Just remember with a right hand thread "Righty Tighty , Lefty Loosey opposite for left hand thread. :lol:

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby lc4 » Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:02 am

ktmguy wrote:
Don't last long getting stuck in the heat 200 km away from a town or petrol station and no cell phone coverage.


Is that a prison phone ?

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MacaveliMC
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby MacaveliMC » Wed Apr 01, 2015 12:18 pm

lc4 wrote:
MacaveliMC wrote:
And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol).



Just remember with a right hand thread "Righty Tighty , Lefty Loosey opposite for left hand thread. :lol:


Sweet thanks for the simple answer/tip! Amazingly I had never heard that before. Must be hangin' with the wrong crowds :mrgreen:

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby abc » Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:11 pm

MacaveliMC wrote:If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead :)

That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?

Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?

And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)

Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.


The 200Nm specification in the manual has been revised by KTM due to the freeplay in the hub assemblies and is now 250Nm torque spec for the 60mm rear wheel nut. The other revision is 70Nm for the clamp bolt that is used when adjusting the chain tension. You should be using these new torque numbers and not the original figures.
Locking varnish is just a varnish that is designed to be painted onto two parts to stop them from vibrating loose. You dont really need it in this case and even a thick dob of paint will do the same job once it is allowed to dry. Dont stress on this part as its not that important.
To confirm for you exactly which way you undo the large wheel nut - face the nut you wish to undo and put a mark on the top of the nut. When undoing the nut on a normal right hand thread the mark on the nut should turn anticlockwise. When doing up the nut the mark should turn clockwise. For a lefthand thread the opposite directions apply. The large rear wheel nut and the clamp bolt are both righthand threads - Geeeees i'm glad thats over!
For the purposes of keeping things simple you can use almost any grease to lubricate the threads and the faces of the thrust washers prior to doing the wheel nut up to the new specification. Wipe off any excess.
Hope this helps you.
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MacaveliMC
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby MacaveliMC » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:17 am

abc wrote:
MacaveliMC wrote:If you have time to complain, you should be riding instead :)

That being said, I noticed the KTM Shop Manual for the bike says 200nm and some people are mentioning other numbers. Is the shop manual wrong?

Also, it says "Lock the locking wire with locking varnish". What the heck is locking varnish, and why does the locking wire need it?? I tried to look up locking varnish and it just kept coming up as a loctite product, which I thought was used for the threads, not a locking wire?

And finally, can we confirm which way to spin this nut to get it off? I kept seeing left hand, right hand, blah blah. Lets make it simple: do you spin it clockwise, or counter-clockwise to take it off? That way, someone in the future like me who has no idea what left hand or right hand thread means, will have a very simple straight forward answer to the question when they use the search function and find these posts (fingers crossed about the search function! lol)

Edit: Also, what do you guys use for grease on the threads? Manual recommends Motorex Bike Grease 2000 which is a lithium based grease, for the threads of the axle and axle nut. I have a Valvoline Full Synthetic grease I used on the axles of my race bike, wondering if I can just use that and be done with it.


The 200Nm specification in the manual has been revised by KTM due to the freeplay in the hub assemblies and is now 250Nm torque spec for the 60mm rear wheel nut. The other revision is 70Nm for the clamp bolt that is used when adjusting the chain tension. You should be using these new torque numbers and not the original figures.
Locking varnish is just a varnish that is designed to be painted onto two parts to stop them from vibrating loose. You dont really need it in this case and even a thick dob of paint will do the same job once it is allowed to dry. Dont stress on this part as its not that important.
To confirm for you exactly which way you undo the large wheel nut - face the nut you wish to undo and put a mark on the top of the nut. When undoing the nut on a normal right hand thread the mark on the nut should turn anticlockwise. When doing up the nut the mark should turn clockwise. For a lefthand thread the opposite directions apply. The large rear wheel nut and the clamp bolt are both righthand threads - Geeeees i'm glad thats over!
For the purposes of keeping things simple you can use almost any grease to lubricate the threads and the faces of the thrust washers prior to doing the wheel nut up to the new specification. Wipe off any excess.
Hope this helps you.


Helps oodles! Thanks! :) I wonder if my torque wrench reaches 250nm....

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MacaveliMC
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby MacaveliMC » Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:30 pm

Just ordered a 12-pt 60mm steel socket off Amazon for $55. Now just need to find a torque wrench that reaches 250nm! Mine only reaches 210nm :x

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ma1290rky
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby ma1290rky » Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:01 pm

300Nm torque wrench, 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor and a 60mm 3/4" drive socket all now here safely.. aroud 120gbp in total!!

...because the beast is wort it..

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lc4
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby lc4 » Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:04 am

KTM Factory rear wheel torque wrench


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MacaveliMC
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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby MacaveliMC » Thu Apr 16, 2015 2:16 pm

lc4 wrote:KTM Factory rear wheel torque wrench



LOL hilarious

I ended up returning my 12 pt 60mm 1-inch drive socket, because apparently torque wrenches take a rather large leap in price when you look at 1-inch drives, and finding an adapter proved very difficult as well.

Found a regular 60mm socket 3/4 drive, a torque wrench with a 1/2 drive that goes up to 250 ft-lbs, and an adapter - all for around $110 off of Amazon.

I also bought a 24 inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight. All in all, the breaker bar easily broke the nut lose, and the torque wrench (which is almost as long) easily torqued it down. Just had a buddy holding the bike up and the rear brake down. Having the double safety wires on the rear nut also gives me a lot of peace of mind that it'll never come flying off. :mrgreen:

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Re: 1290 Rear wheel removal

Postby Ian » Wed May 06, 2015 12:18 am

I don't understand this, I have a 60mm 3/4" drive socket, I used a fairly decent 1/2" drive breaker bar and can not at all get the nut to move, clockwise or counterclockwise. I am not a small guy and have worked out for 25 years. To put that into perspective, I actually picked the rear of the bike up with the breaker bar I was torquing so hard. I'm at wit end here.

Can someone confirm whether it's a left hand or right hand thread and also what the heck I'm doing wrong? I realise it's torque insanely, but I would think it would break here.

thanks for the help.

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