Clutch Slipping

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Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:11 am

Do you have a part number for the springs and a shim size by chance?

Roja
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Roja » Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:23 am

I actually do.


If you contact Rekluse and ask for 3 X ref. 442-114. Those are the springs. Now, you'll need two washers per spring as well.

If you want to do it right, contact Rekluse tech support (wonderful guys and easy to get a hold of), and ask them to send you the diagram for install. You can quote "same diagram as used on the 3 SuperDuke1290s in Spain for Peter Bokor".

Basically, there are two little washers that go below the clutch plate, inside the springs, such as to move the clutch plate out just a little, so as the springs to not be too strong for our bikes.

"Yes", the slipper still works. "Yes", it's a little harder to pull in the lever. "No", there's no way your clutch will slip again.

abc
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby abc » Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:02 am

thanks Roja that is good news. Thanks for posting back with your outcomes as not many do. Do you know the specification of the harley spring and the thickness of the washers?

I have this new info from ktm and it bodes well for a solution:
part No: 61332005100 = Adv 1190/1050. clutch spring BLUE (spec 933Newtons)
part No: 69332005100 = RC8/sdr 1290. clutch spring GREEN (spec 984 Newtons)
part No: 61432005000 = 1290 Super Duke GT/ 1290 Super Duke R 2017. clutch spring ORANGE (spec 1080 Newtons)
So you can see they have increased the spring spec in the 2017 1290 SDR to match the upgraded springs in the 1290 GT. At this stage it looks like there is no extra per load washers fitted to the GT.
Unfortunately the current availability for the 1080N springs is NIL but it is proof that the 1290 GT springs will help if your pre 2017 SDR has issues with slip.
AND ktm will probable want something like 30 Bucks per spring :roll:
Obviously you would check lever free play prior to purchasing any new springs.
So there you go!
Any modifications you undertake are your sole responsibility, I am not liable for any claims relating to modifications or suggestions posted on this forum. If you undertake any modifications you do so at your own risk.

Roja
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Roja » Fri Jun 03, 2016 11:52 am

I actually don't know the specs on the Harley springs, nor do I have any more info on the actual washers - as Rekluse sent me 3 packs (in order to solve 3 bikes).
Surely tech-support at Rekluse would have that.

I can say that I was totally blown away to find that Rekluse had the springs in my hands within a week - and I'm based in Spain (which makes it no easy feat!)

If KTM can't get the GT springs out to you and you're heading to the track this spring/summer, perhaps the best bet still remains to go with Rekluse.

I must admit, I also changed out the entire clutch to a Rekluse centrifugal, but that's neither here nor there as far as the springs go.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:50 pm

That's great guys! Thanks

DMacL
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby DMacL » Sat Jun 04, 2016 10:40 pm

abc wrote:thanks Roja that is good news. Thanks for posting back with your outcomes as not many do. Do you know the specification of the harley spring and the thickness of the washers?

I have this new info from ktm and it bodes well for a solution:
part No: 61332005100 = Adv 1190/1050. clutch spring BLUE (spec 933Newtons)
part No: 69332005100 = RC8/sdr 1290. clutch spring GREEN (spec 984 Newtons)
part No: 61432005000 = 1290 Super Duke GT/ 1290 Super Duke R 2017. clutch spring ORANGE (spec 1080 Newtons)
So you can see they have increased the spring spec in the 2017 1290 SDR to match the upgraded springs in the 1290 GT. At this stage it looks like there is no extra per load washers fitted to the GT.
Unfortunately the current availability for the 1080N springs is NIL but it is proof that the 1290 GT springs will help if your pre 2017 SDR has issues with slip.
AND ktm will probable want something like 30 Bucks per spring :roll:
Obviously you would check lever free play prior to purchasing any new springs.
So there you go!


Can your source advise the spring rate for RC8R pink springs? They solved my clutch slip. 69132005000

abc
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby abc » Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:12 am

Thats good to know DMacl - unfortunately I feel I am pushing my luck with all my recent enquiries - my enquiries tend to add up because there are too many people in the food chain, so very simplistic responses are the result. It all means as usual that one question leads to another because I can't talk directly to the dealers mythical expert :cry:
Often I am just handed a piece of paper with numbers on it and I am left to interpret what it all means - its a very ineffective way to have a technical conversation!
I will leave the answer to your question for someone else to get off their ass and find out - share the love around a bit………..
Any modifications you undertake are your sole responsibility, I am not liable for any claims relating to modifications or suggestions posted on this forum. If you undertake any modifications you do so at your own risk.

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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Roja » Sun Jun 05, 2016 9:51 am

At the end of the day, the good news is that 3 harder springs will solve the slipping problem.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:58 am

What about the EBC springs made for the RC8 and RC8R? They are 10 percent stronger than stock apparently. If the clutch is identical other than springs, then we should just be able to drop them in shouldn't we? Seems straightforward unless I'm missing something. Their Kevlar lined plates sound interesting too.

Or how about a Barnett alternative? http://www.barnettclutches.com/2198/ktm ... e%20r.html

Do these affect the slipper mechanism?

Roja
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Roja » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:15 pm

Oboro, it really is that simple. Just drop in the harder springs, BUT know what you're dropping in - as in 10% harder is ok, but don't go nuts putting in springs that are 30% harder.

As far as the actual plates go, it doesn't matter. IMHO it doesn't. I have the top of the line Rekluse super ass reinforced kryptonite titanium laser infrared Kevlar superman's nuts plates, and I've taken stock SDRs out for rides and can't notice a difference. It's in the wrist. The OEM plates are just fine.

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Plake
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Plake » Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:39 pm

abc wrote:thanks Roja that is good news. Thanks for posting back with your outcomes as not many do. Do you know the specification of the harley spring and the thickness of the washers?

I have this new info from ktm and it bodes well for a solution:
part No: 61332005100 = Adv 1190/1050. clutch spring BLUE (spec 933Newtons)
part No: 69332005100 = RC8/sdr 1290. clutch spring GREEN (spec 984 Newtons)
part No: 61432005000 = 1290 Super Duke GT/ 1290 Super Duke R 2017. clutch spring ORANGE (spec 1080 Newtons)
So you can see they have increased the spring spec in the 2017 1290 SDR to match the upgraded springs in the 1290 GT. At this stage it looks like there is no extra per load washers fitted to the GT.
Unfortunately the current availability for the 1080N springs is NIL but it is proof that the 1290 GT springs will help if your pre 2017 SDR has issues with slip.
AND ktm will probable want something like 30 Bucks per spring :roll:
Obviously you would check lever free play prior to purchasing any new springs.
So there you go!


Massively helpful, thanks mate.

Have written to KTM to see if they'll authorise a goodwill replacement with the new clutch springs.

In the UK they are £16.99 a pop and probably about 30-45 mins labour time for the dealer to fit, so all in not too costly. Well worth it if it solves the problem.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:01 pm

If anyone can get me a set of the new orange springs from the GT will gladly buy them and give you a brisk high five.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Wed Jun 08, 2016 5:22 pm

Rekluse has springs specifically for the Duke now and they are sending me a set to check out my I'll keep you guys posted.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Thu Jun 23, 2016 3:29 am

The Rekluse springs seem to have done the trick!! Gave the bike a few good hauls into a headwind today in fifth and it was solid!! My slipping was getting very pronounced before the new springs went it. They are 30% stronger roughly according to Rekluse but the pull on them is great. Nice and springy but no harder than many stock bikes I've ridden. No problems riding slow and feathering the clutch! Anyone have slip issues should get ahold of them for sure rather than wait for the GT springs.

abc
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby abc » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:53 am

thanks for your feedback and its good to know what alternatives there are to the GT springs.
well done
Any modifications you undertake are your sole responsibility, I am not liable for any claims relating to modifications or suggestions posted on this forum. If you undertake any modifications you do so at your own risk.

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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Thomas-M » Wed Jul 06, 2016 5:51 pm

I was out this last weekend, very hot out and pushing the revs some, and low and behold I have the slipping!!!!
Barnett Clutches sells a set of replacement springs, P/N 501-82-03074. Cost is $11.73 for the 3 springs (1 set).
They also said that their springs are generally 15% stiffer, and are a direct replacement.
Not a bad price, and worth a try. I'm gonna get a set to try, and will report back with results as soon as I stick them in...
Tom

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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Thomas-M » Sat Jul 16, 2016 8:48 pm

Thomas-M wrote:I was out this last weekend, very hot out and pushing the revs some, and low and behold I have the slipping!!!!
Barnett Clutches sells a set of replacement springs, P/N 501-82-03074. Cost is $11.73 for the 3 springs (1 set).
They also said that their springs are generally 15% stiffer, and are a direct replacement.
Not a bad price, and worth a try. I'm gonna get a set to try, and will report back with results as soon as I stick them in...
Tom

I ordered the Barnett springs, and they arrived after about a week. Compared to the OEM springs these are slightly stiffer. I measured how short I could squeeze them by hand (very unscientific!), and they were always a bit stiffer. Length and diameters are the same by eye.
Went out for a test ride today....
No more slipping!
Cheap and easy fix!!!!!

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Plake
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Plake » Sat Jul 16, 2016 9:12 pm

Changed my slave to an Oberon last week. Had a chance to properly open it up yesterday. Makes no sense to me but no noticeable slipping. Clutch biting point used to be right at the outermost point of the lever travel, now it's much closer to the bar. Don't know if I just didn't thrash it enough to elicit the slipping or what but will try again soon.

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Plake
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Plake » Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:44 pm

Well, the slip has definitely gone. It's as if the previous slave didn't allow full disengagement of the clutch. Biting point did use to be right at the outer limit of the clutch lever travel, now it's more central and I'm guessing it's the slave that's made the difference.

vernonbc
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby vernonbc » Wed Jul 20, 2016 8:24 pm

Sorry not try to hijack the thread but for those of you that replaced the springs. Did you have to replace the gasket for the clutch cover and
did you have to drain the oil before removing the cover or can it be removed when on the sidestand with oil still in bike.
Thanks

xtremewlr
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby xtremewlr » Wed Jul 20, 2016 10:18 pm

vernonbc wrote:Sorry not try to hijack the thread but for those of you that replaced the springs. Did you have to replace the gasket for the clutch cover and
did you have to drain the oil before removing the cover or can it be removed when on the sidestand with oil still in bike.
Thanks


I haven't replaced my clutch springs but I have replaced the clutch cover with a Motohooligan one. The cover doesn't use a gasket, it uses an o-ring. As long as the original o-ring is in good condition, with no pinches or breaks, you can reuse it. But they are cheap and easy to replace so it wouldn't hurt to just get a new one.

You can do the job on the side stand. Some oil will come out, maybe half a quart at the most, but you can do the job without draining all the oil. Just replace what does come out and you will be fine.

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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Thomas-M » Thu Jul 21, 2016 1:26 am

xtremewlr wrote:
vernonbc wrote:Sorry not try to hijack the thread but for those of you that replaced the springs. Did you have to replace the gasket for the clutch cover and
did you have to drain the oil before removing the cover or can it be removed when on the sidestand with oil still in bike.
Thanks


I haven't replaced my clutch springs but I have replaced the clutch cover with a Motohooligan one. The cover doesn't use a gasket, it uses an o-ring. As long as the original o-ring is in good condition, with no pinches or breaks, you can reuse it. But they are cheap and easy to replace so it wouldn't hurt to just get a new one.

You can do the job on the side stand. Some oil will come out, maybe half a quart at the most, but you can do the job without draining all the oil. Just replace what does come out and you will be fine.

If you put the bike on 2"x4" blocks under the wheels (the thin way), the bike leans far enough not to leak more than a few drops of oil. It leans a lot but it's still steady.

vernonbc
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby vernonbc » Fri Jul 22, 2016 7:44 pm

awesome. thanks for the info. Now to see if I can get some springs to replace the stock green ones. Going to see if I can get the orange ones.

Oboro
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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby Oboro » Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:06 am

Contact Rekluse for springs.

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Re: Clutch Slipping

Postby MX473 » Mon Jul 25, 2016 7:34 pm

Roja wrote:Fwiw, my dealer went to the highest level with this issue and was given the following info:

The clutch should not slip, regardless of using Motorex or Motul. They took apart my clutch and saw that the plates were well within normal wear-specs (as in, they were fine). The tolerances/play was slightly adjusted, and then they had a look at the handle side of things. Apparently, when the engine heats up and things start to be pushed a little harder, the clutch lever doesn't have enough play and ever so slightly pushes the little rod that it rests on (which pushes in the clutch cylinder on the handle - pardon my lack of knowledge of tech terms).

Mine is the second bike they've fixed last week. On the first, they ground down the actuating rod a little, but on mine, they decided to grind the handle itself down a little (like 1 mm).

Again, I was assured that it is NOT oil related and that slippage is unacceptable. This info comes from KTM tech support for mechanics (some form of last resort / top level hotline. Lol)

Both the other gentleman (to whom I've spoken) and I seem to no longer have slippage happening.

Of course, now that I've solved it, I've been looking at the Rekluse auto-clutch kit, which another colleague put on his SDR. He's now the terror of Barcelona, leaving every stoplight wheelying, while waving at people with his left hand (I'm exaggerating a little, but he's having the time of his life with that auto-clutch)


First time poster. I am another victim of the 1290SDR slipping clutch :D I was happy to find this forum/thread to realise that many people had the same issue. After reading all 4 pages, I got convinced that the springs were the issue (BTW I use Motorex 10W50). I ordered Barnett springs and switched with the "green" OEM. Went for a test ride, 4th gear WFO at 6000 rpm ... and slipping of the clutch :cry: I was really frustrated! Brought the bike to my friend (a mechanic) who immediately saw that the clutch had actually "no free play" ... grinded clutch lever (removed 1-2 mm) ... Problem solved :)

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