ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

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MacaveliMC
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ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby MacaveliMC » Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:39 pm

Hey guys I have a 2014 Super Duke, listen to this:

I recently installed this on the bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME86YDS/

At first I wired it into the constant power ACC wires under the seat. But I came back to my bike days later and found the battery drained. So I switched it over to the switched ACC power wires.

Well today I turned my bike on to check my work with the clutch fluid, and it sounded like it was making some odd sounds, like extra ticking noises, so I turned the key to shut it off. NOTHING HAPPENED.

The bike literally kept running, even when I pulled the key out of the bike! It only turned off with the kill switch.

So I disconnected the ACC wires, started the bike again, and it sounded fine. Turned the key to off, and the bike shut off.

SO STRANGE. Anyone have any ideas??

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Sarasota_Steve
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby Sarasota_Steve » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:11 pm

Not that this is any help with your issue, but that is exactly the USB port I installed to the switched ACC1 in my 990 with zero problems.
Ride Hard,
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Sarasota_Steve
08 990 SDR (For Sale)
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jmann
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby jmann » Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:12 am

Comrade: Unless this thing has smarts built in it shouldn't flatten your battery thus either your wiring is questionable or the device is "leaking".
I note the following from the Amazon FAQ's:

"Mine was defective from the very beginning, and I've just not had the time to remove all the wiring as I had to route it very tightly on my BMW K1600.
By James D. Sullivan on July 14, 2015"


"This works as expected but you need to know something important. After I installed this I noticed that my battery would drain quite quickly. I used a multimeter to test what's draining the battery and I narrowed it down to this. This pulls a 17 ma or .017 amp draw. You should have no more than a 5 ma (.005 amp) draw but really you want to be as close to zero as possible. So to get rid of that draw I installed a toggle switch. I connected this directly to the battery but even if you go another way you still should install a toggle switch to disconnect the draw. (Edited) Or you can just purchase the one with the switch already built in."

REDTALE2000
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby REDTALE2000 » Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:32 pm

This doesn’t qualify as a fix but it should be a relevant data point: the bike will keep running with the key off if the bike is moving. Any chance you had the bike on a stand when you tested it? The rear wheel will usually rotate a bit even in neutral. This would keep the engine on until you either stopped the wheel rotation or hit the kill switch.
2014 1290 85K miles

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MacaveliMC
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby MacaveliMC » Fri Apr 06, 2018 2:49 pm

Alright so, I'm really dumb....but I still got questions.

I double checked the wiring diagrams, and I made a bad assumption. The battery positive wire was the black with the red stripe (I assumed black=ground when hooking it up), and the ground wire was the "brown" wire, which looks almost like a light pink in color so I assumed it was positive. I switched the wires around, and fired the bike up. No more weird sounds, and the bike turned off completely when I turned the key to off.

I don't know why, but it does seem that this USB device does draw a little bit of power, so I'll just keep it on switched power for now. No big deal.

It seems like my issue is solved, but given the comments about the clutch, I wanted to ask these questions:

1. Would the bike really continue to run with only the momentum of the rear wheel spinning in the air?? It was on a stand, but it didn't continue to run after I wired the USB device correctly.

2. I did my clutch fluid by forcing the fluid into the nipple and removing old fluid out of the reservoir. Despite blowing the tube off the nipple a couple times, I eventually got it down and successfully pushed an entire bottle of new fluid up through the system. When I started the bike to test it, I put it in gear so the rear wheel was spinning in the air, then I pulled the clutch in but the wheel was still spinning. I couldn't stop it with my foot so I was worried at first. Then I tried the rear brake and the rear wheel stopped immediately, no problem. Didn't sound like it was dragging on the engine at all either. Does this sound normal? I know the bike would sometimes give a tiny little jump in the past when I start it up while sitting on it. I figured it was something to do with the oil suctioning the clutch plates together momentarily. Beyond this I've never had any issues with the clutch.

Thank you for all your thoughts!

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Scotty
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby Scotty » Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:57 pm

With a wet clutch, and especially with the oil below optimum temperature, there will always be an element of clutch drag when the lever is pulled in. With the rear wheel on the ground the drag from a healthy clutch system will be negligible, but with the wheel in the air there's no resistance so it will spin. If you tried the same thing following a decent ride there's a good chance that you'd get far less spin and be able to stop it easily with your foot due to the hotter oil not causing drag between the clutch plates.

Disclaimer: Scotty accepts no liability whatsoever should MacaveliMC attempt to stop his wheel spinning when in gear by using his foot and it all going tits-up!
Wheelies - they ARE big, and they ARE clever....

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MacaveliMC
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Re: ACC Switched Power Causing Issues

Postby MacaveliMC » Thu May 17, 2018 12:23 pm

The good news is, it's all sorted and the tits have stayed down. Happy riding!


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