Soft 32 - Dat 101 (Rectifier Problems)

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No. 47
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Soft 32 - Dat 101 (Rectifier Problems)

Postby No. 47 » Sun Dec 13, 2009 12:19 pm

Low beam bulb blows, then clock resets, then digital display disappears and tacho sometimes dies but backlight stays on - two code messages - 'soft' in bottom left corner and '32' in bottom right, followed by 'dat' and '101' in respective corners of digital display ('soft' = software and 'dat' = data?) - digital display will then fire up again, then die followed by the two code messages and the cycle is repeated a few times until digital display comes back 'permanently'.

Has now happened five/six times but usually with a working low beam bulb at the start - the clock reset , loss of digital display and code message cycle has only happened once or twice with a blown low beam bulb.

Have just been through the repairing/replacing corroded battery/relay cables saga but this problem was happening before and continues after - concluded that bulb and digital display may not be related and is most likely loose connection(s) but anyone else experienced this or similar problem?
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Postby ShadeTheChangingMan » Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:42 pm

never heard of this one mate! Hope you find out what s going on.
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Postby doctypo » Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:13 pm

Make sure your battery is topped off. Pull the fuses for the bulbs and see if your bike starts like that and check to make sure all of your ground connections on your chassis are solid.

I had a bulb and fuse issue a few years ago when a wire kept on getting shorted out behind the headlight cowl. It was at the lower portion of the wiring loom where there's a horizontal aluminium bar holding everything in place and no loom to protect the wires.
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Postby jblee10 » Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:58 pm

I had a similar experience, with a soft 31 and Dat 101. I ended up replacing
the battery. It seemed to have solved the issue. Some people on the forum
suggested these are codes for the battery.
Good luck :)

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Postby No. 47 » Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:58 am

Thanks guys.

Have already checked the battery and it seems OK - will check again.

Thought I had solved the problem when I found a couple of loose connectors that join through a vertical plate on the right hand side behind the headlight cowl - the 'female' sides were clip locking to the plate and not the 'male' sides resulting in intermittent connection - will check these again also.
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Postby tyke » Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:19 am

I'm having the same issues, any luck resolving yours ?

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Postby MRK-01 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:23 am

had this problem with my origional battery and not running the bike for a while. even a few weeks in cold weather will cause enough loss in the battery. These twins need all the cold cranking amps they can..!! So first step I would take is replace the battery and put a trickle charge setup on there.

as I replaced the battery thinking there will be no more issues, didnt ride it for a few weeks and presto.... soft 32 and dat 101 errors..!!

connected up a trickle charger to it, left it a day or two, then fired up first thing..!
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Postby No. 47 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:56 am

The 'soft 32 - dat 101' code, seems to appear when there is a low/loss of battery power eg when the battery is disconnected and/or replaced - the code implies a reference to software and data though.

I originally assumed that my experience was due to a failing battery (unlikely as I did not get a battery warning light but the appearance of the code may be an early warning) or a dodgy connection, which in my case may have been the respective connectors in the headlamp mask (more likely as the engine, lights, etc including the speedo backlighting, were fine but the speedo display and sometimes the tacho disappeared).

I ended up replacing the battery and regulator anyway but I am not convinced that the battery needed replacing as the regulator definitely had an intermittent problem even though it checked out OK - sporadic failure of the regulator may have been the problem all along.
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Postby orpheus » Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:38 am

No. 47 wrote:I ended up replacing the battery and regulator anyway but I am not convinced that the battery needed replacing as the regulator definitely had an intermittent problem even though it checked out OK - sporadic failure of the regulator may have been the problem all along.


I've just done exactly the same - didn't have the error codes you had but the dash was doing wierd things and indicators flashing at twice speed.

Battery seemed to have good voltage and regulator checked out on all possible measurements.

Never failed to start or anything but just ran a bit crappy plus dash and indicator gremlins.

Came to the conculsion that either the battery was failing giving the regulator a hard time or the regulator was failing giving the battery a hard time.

Bit the bullet and replaced both and problem solved.

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Postby SDNerd » Fri Jul 30, 2010 4:25 pm

Same exact code. Behaves (at the starter button) like a nearly dead/dying battery.

Dim lights and dash behavior as described, etc.

How it occurred: it started, and was warmed. Drop it in gear, start to pull away (clutch out), and it stalls (which, from what I've read, isn't too unusual ...). The behavior No. 47 describes, then ensues.

Mine's pretty new - as in low mileage. But, its a 2008 I purchased NOS only a few months ago. Under warranty I suppose ... no corrosion or anything like that - all is clean.

I've been taking only very short trips on it lately (<5 miles): A known issue on other bikes is that they never get well charged. I have plenty of Battery Tenders, and will install one of their pigtails.

Will edit with the outcome, but welcome any additional advice on this.

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Postby ShadeTheChangingMan » Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:43 pm

Since this first happened last year i have experienced it twice. It's your rectifier.

Check the connection to battery negative, it can snap right at the point where the cable terminates to a round crimp connector for the battery. If it is this then the rectifier is not charging the battery for you as you ride.
If its not that then the rectifier could be fried.

Stick a multimeter on the battery when the bike is not on, measure it. Less than about 12.5v and it wont start.

Then firer it up, measure the same. Make sure headlight is on to replicate a load. Should get around 14v if it's charging. If it's low then no charging voltage and you are on borrowed time until battery dies. Luckily new rectifier is easy to fit but costs about £75 I think from memory.

If none of this corresponds to the problem then I'm out of ideas, sorry.
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Postby SDNerd » Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:34 pm

EDIT: Holy shit - there's a fuckton of threads on this very issue (Mods: got merge ?). No definitive solution, but several different gremlins to chase away ...

I'm pretty certain now that the Soft n.n (2.9, 3.1, 3.2 whatever) is a version number. The one consistent thing people get is the "Dat 10.1" or "Dat 101" - not documented anywhere ... I'll be certain to bore you all to tears when I learn what variant my particular case is.

------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the suggestion ShadeTheChangingMan, and all the rest of you for at least giving me some direction on where to begin on this one. Very weird that these codes aren't in either the Factory Service Manual nor the Owner's Manual ... no mention of them appearing on the display (at least not anywhere I can find).

Battery tests fine - takes charge, no problem. Charged Voltage indicates no damaged/shorted cells.

Don't think its fusing (fuel pump goes on, and no other errors indicated). Whrn attempting to start it, the engine just begins to turnover, then the starter just stops. If I just keep my thumb on the starter it will just repeat the start attempt over and over - ultimately resulting in just clicking (presumably of the solenoid). Half tempted to pull the spark plugs in case a cylinder filled with gas/oil, or something else (?)

Any chance its the tipover switch? On that - is there any reset for that (other than putting it in the correct orientation again)? No, it wasn't tipped over.

Good to go on testing regulators, and will be #2 thing to check as soon as I check all the connections ... invariably the most common culprit with electrical issues on bikes ...

Unfortunate thing is I can't get it to start to test it properly.

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Instrument panel not working

Postby David H » Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:39 pm

I'm glad I found this thread. For over a month now, my SD's instrument panel has not been working. The bike runs fine, but with the ignition on, only the backlighting is on on the instrument panel, and nothing else. With the ignition off, the FI light flashes. Now that I've read this thread, I know that this represents error codes, but the bike's been to two KTM dealers and neither of them have mentioned this. The odd thing is that I seem to get lots of codes, e.g. 33, 54, 14 (if I've interpreted this correctly - e.g. I get five flashes-buzzes separated by about 20 seconds per flash, followed by four flashes-buzzes in quick succession, so I presume that's 54). The first dealer (in France, touring holiday) replaced the battery. It made no difference. In fact, after changing the battery he checked the old one and found it was reading 12.8v, and was almost apologetic. Today I've checked the voltages as per this thread and it's 12.5 volts with the engine off and just over 13 volts with it running, so I reckon the battery and regulator/rectifier are OK. When the panel first failed, I was riding the bike, and it went off and on several times, displaying "soft 2.0" in the lower right area of the panel. At the time, the low beam headlight bulb wasn't working (in case that's important). That day, I replaced the bulb and tracked down the French dealer (who replaced the battery). I've since taken it to my UK dealer who couldn't diagnose the fault. I've now checked virtually every connector on the loom, all the earths, both diodes, and I'm running out of hope. I've even checked the voltages on every pin on the block connector on the back of the instrument panel and have sent the list of results off to KTM UK to ask them which, if any, is the "rogue" wire. Anyone got any further ideas? Sorry for the length of this post, but I'm really stuck.

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Instrument panel

Postby David H » Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:42 pm

Sorry, forgot to mention that the UK dealer swapped the instrument panel out (three times in all) for new items and they all gave the same results, so concluded the fault wasn't with the panel itself.

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Postby ShadeTheChangingMan » Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:49 pm

13 volts is not a massive amount for a running engine. Spin it up to 5000rpm and it should read about 14 volts. If not investigate rectifier and alternator.

Maybe it's also time to request a new loom?
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Postby David H » Fri Aug 06, 2010 11:27 pm

Now checked with two different multi-meters, same results: 12.5v with the ignition off, drops to 12v when the ignition (and headlamp) are turned on, then sits at 13v with the engine running, even at high revs (no tacho, so can't be precise!)

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Postby ktmguy » Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:44 am

From what you're saying I'm pretty sure it's the regulator.
A corroded battery terminal can make it blow up and then you get higher voltage than usual which makes things like bulbs go pop.

Try the volt meter test again but let it run a bit longer as the battery tries to keep the voltage down (works as a cap) but the voltage should increase as it over charges. Don't leave it too long as it will cook the battery.
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Postby buchere » Sat Aug 07, 2010 11:55 am

I've had the same problem on my 09 Duke, dealer tought at first it was the regulator but it seemed to be a bad/loose connection behind the instrument pannel.

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Postby DribbleDuke » Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:10 pm

My magic Gremlin is that I end up with cleaned clocks about every other time I start it up now. Clock blinking twelve and no miles on the odometer. I try to go for rides at twelve noon so that my clock is set right and pollish the bike up to look new when I get back, I figure I can sell the bike as a new leftover 07 at noon to any unsuspecting twat and give him her a tail light guarantee. Guarantee is void when I can not see the tailight.
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Postby smoky » Mon Aug 09, 2010 11:36 am

i just had a broken ground wire from rectifier, ended up pushing the bike for 30 min, in my full racing gear, in 32 C heat :evil: :twisted:

checking the voltages from the reg/rec i get more or less the same thing as David H...

fully charged battery shows 13.5. 13.0 with light on, 13.6 idling - but if i increase the RPM it drops to ~13.2 :? stays at 13.2 from 3K all the way up. it seems low to me?
i was worried the reg/rec fried after dyno, the fans were directed mostly at the radiator...
i went for a bit of a ride to see if the battery is loosing charge, but after 15 min or so, the battery shows 13.8 ??

at this point i think i'll just ride it and see whta happens...
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Postby rallsy » Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:12 pm

Well today i have had the soft 3.2 followed by he 10.1 code

I have had it in the past but put a charge into the battery and it seemed all fine.

A 5 weeks back, i changed the speedo as i buggered mine up, and at the same time put the motobox on and sas removal, i then took it for a ride and all was fine

then a week later i went out on it for the day, and then since parked it up for about 2 weeks, this morning put it on charge thinking it would be alittle low as i was going out this afternoon,
on the charger it showed fully charged, so pressed the start button and nothing, apart from the soft 3.2 and then dat 10.1 code

i checked all fuses and battery connections, charged the battery again, put it back on and the same again, any clues, i see on the thread a regulator ?? where is this, what does it look like

any help or ideas welcomed

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Postby tyke » Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:05 pm

The regulator is the bit on top of your battery cover with cooling fins on it. It's held in with 2 hex headed bolts.

It's item #30 on page #22 here

I've been through some similar issues. Replaced the regulator and it helped, but the repeated "non-starts" must've permenantly damaged the battery, it killed a new one in no time.

I've now got a new battery that hasn't taken any abuse, established the integrity of all my connections and got a new regulator/rectifier....all is well.

The Super Duke is rather highly strung :)

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Postby rallsy » Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:38 pm

many thanks looks like i will be ordering a new battery and regulator :/

btw the new part number for he regualtor is

VOLTAGE REGULATOR
60011034100

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No. 47
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Re: Soft 32 - Dat 101 (Rectifier Problems)

Postby No. 47 » Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:59 pm

No. 47 wrote:Low beam bulb blows, then clock resets, then digital display disappears and tacho sometimes dies but backlight stays on - two code messages - 'soft' in bottom left corner and '32' in bottom right, followed by 'dat' and '101' in respective corners of digital display ('soft' = software and 'dat' = data?) - digital display will then fire up again, then die followed by the two code messages and the cycle is repeated a few times until digital display comes back 'permanently'.

Has now happened five/six times but usually with a working low beam bulb at the start - the clock reset , loss of digital display and code message cycle has only happened once or twice with a blown low beam bulb.

Have just been through the repairing/replacing corroded battery/relay cables saga but this problem was happening before and continues after - concluded that bulb and digital display may not be related and is most likely loose connection(s) but anyone else experienced this or similar problem?


Just started to suffer same symptoms yet again....................having already replaced the original speedo unit which died (except for backlight) at circa 30k miles, the (4.5k miles) used replacement is now dying - no blown bulbs, etc this time and I've been running with a voltmeter for a while now and this shows no voltage drop when the clocks reset, etc - so I guess that 'soft 32 dat 101' can also indicate a dying speedo unit as well as a faulty wiring, battery, rectifier, etc.

Fitting a spare speedo unit today to test diagnosis.
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No. 47
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Re: Soft 32 - Dat 101 (Rectifier Problems)

Postby No. 47 » Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:21 pm

Tested three (used) spare speedo units - all dead apart from backlight - checked all earth wires and connections, replaced battery and regulator/rectifier -still nothing but backlight - so I have either four dead speedo units or there is another problem.

Anyone know where the speedo conectors X301 and X302 are? Shown on the wiring diagram but no other reference to them in the schedule of connectors in the manual.
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