The Gin Reaper wrote:PBRnr - you can crudely measure if there is any run out using a sharp pencil. Place tip against the disc and shaft of the pencil braced against suitable surface that wont move like the fork leg or brake calliper. Then rotate the disc slowly and see if the tip moves off the disc or breaks off depending on if the disc moves away or toward the pencil......
its crude but it works - may take a couple of attempts to brace the pencil properly.
Savage wrote:I had the issue and nothing showed any signs of warping or Ill fitting rotors.
I went ahead and filed the castings and refitted the rotors, no more issues.
I think sanding is not going to help, you need to use a file.
I used a small hand smooth file and that did the trick for me.
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DaveNZ wrote:A build up of pad material on the high spots of your disc can cause pulsing, also if your worried with the alignment of the callipers to the disc, loosen the calliper bolts, hold your brake (brake lever) hard in, so pistons lock to disc, then tighten the calliper bolts while the brake is locked on, you could put a zip tie on the brake, or get someone to hold it on.
PBRnr wrote:thx. I forgot to say I lightly sanded the rotors when they were both off the rim. Just today cleaned off the pistons. maybe 1 of 4 were slow but all were mobile initially. Didn't have time to take a test ride after bolting things back together today
Fingers crossed.
Maybe the next step would be to swap out the brake pads tho the oem brembos on there right now have lots of meat left...
PBRnr wrote:One kicker is that the oem toolkit doesn’t include a 5mm Allen key to even take off the battery fairing! KTM saw fit to include a bottle opener though as a final F U it seems as I sit here without power and without beverage
PBRnr wrote:One kicker is that the oem toolkit doesn’t include a 5mm Allen key to even take off the battery fairing! KTM saw fit to include a bottle opener though as a final F U it seems as I sit here without power and without beverage
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