Rear hub numbers affected.

[chrisRR]

Ah, so is the undersized axle still thought to be the root of the issue (bearing failure and water ingress aside)? If the axle is the issue then a 2016+ axle would fix the issue presumably.

[abc]

Ah, so is the undersized axle still thought to be the root of the issue (bearing failure and water ingress aside)? If the axle is the issue then a 2016+ axle would fix the issue presumably.

If your bike has free play in the hub assembly I would suggest you tighten the large rear axle nut and the hub clamp bolt (the one you loosen to adjust your chain) to the correct (updated) torque specs and recheck. If you still have free play you might need another hub assembly. If you hub is foocked I believe it is because of water entering the bearings.
A 4mm diameter hole drilled in the bottom of the swing arm should help that issue.

[chrisRR]

Yeah, though a 'little' play is normal from what I understand. Whether that play can be felt when giving the rear wheel a good solid push pull at the 1 O'clock position while standing chain side escapes me.

[orangecrush]

17 pages is a bunch to attempt to read. Questions:

Has this Rear Hub issue been fixed for the 2016 and up years? When I had my first tyre swap (this is going to post "tyre" isn't it. Not how I spelled it. ugh), with just over 600 miles on it, they did the "torque test" as required by KTM, and it passed. But, is this something I need to "test" every time I swap a tyre? (their test required to over torque at ??? value to check for failure, then reset at spec).

My other question is about the nut retainer springs. The "wheel" side has two springs. Are they both necessary? Why I ask is because I have just gotten replacement pins for my Pit-Bull Trailer Restraint System. They are amazing BTW. And in order to install the wheel side pin, the inner spring must be removed. I know me all too well....I'm going to lose that little thing. So, wouldn't the outer spring be sufficient? Or should I just go ahead and order a half dozen of these for the tool box?

T I R E
T I R E
T I R E

LOL

[abc]

Chris - you can feel any free play by holding the tyre at the top because you are feeling a very small amount of clearance between the outer body of the hub assembly and the split clamp that is designed to hold it. That is why the torque spec was increase on the bolt used when tightening the chain.
Orange - both clips are needed, one secures the other. Check rear hub free play once after rear wheel off or chain retention, thats all you should have to do.

[orangecrush]

Chris - you can feel any free play by holding the tyre at the top because you are feeling a very small amount of clearance between the outer body of the hub assembly and the split clamp that is designed to hold it. That is why the torque spec was increase on the bolt used when tightening the chain.
Orange - both clips are needed, one secures the other. Check rear hub free play once after rear wheel off or chain retention, thats all you should have to do.

Much obliged for the reply abc. I will find a way to keep that spring near by while on the TRS. Perhaps a magnet. And, I suppose I had better go ahead now and order two spares. Wheel seems nice and tight. No free play. So, that is good news.

[RyanD]

As we speak. One more ozzy gets his hub fixed. And on the 1290 IS DEAD thread a USA customer is told that his hub play is probably caused by him changing the tyre. You can't make this stuff up. USA customers are not being taking care of. Why is this? Some one on this forum reported that Ktm did indeed monitor this forum. So our we being singled out for complaining?

Is their any USA member that can confirm that Ktm has fixed there hub play issue?

WOW. I know this post is 2 years old, but this happened to me too! When I took my bike in for its scheduled service in December of 2016 (after having my first tyre change about 4 months prior) I asked them to check for rear hub play, because I thought I could feel it wiggle around. Sure enough they found play in my rear hub, contacted KTM, and said it was not covered because "The rear wheel nut was not properly torqued and caused damage to both wheel and carrier." The tyre change with the "incorrectly torqued nut" was done at a KTM dealer 3000 miles from where I currently live. This experience makes me really nervous to have new tyres fitted again. I'd like to have it done at the same shop who diagnosed this problem, so that if I have issues in the future I can be compensated, but they are on a 2 month wait for service, and I have a flat rear tyre!! (Not to mention they will only install tyres bought from their shop which is about $150 over internet prices). I'd like to try to tackle the tyre change on my own, but I'm certain that would give KTM free reign to charge me another $900 if this issue comes back a year from now.

Its a shit situation. Every KTM dealer I've been to is a shop that sells KTM and several other brands, and mainly specializes in off-road vehicles (4 wheelers, dirtbikes, even f*ckin jet skis). At all of them, street bikes from KTM are an afterthought. They *might* have one 1290 on the floor, but often not, and who knows how often they service 1290's.

Very, very frustrating to find this post today when I'm on here researching what set of tyres to put on my bike, 6 months after getting fleeced!

[Bertie Bumwhistle]

I was previously delirious with my recent purchase of a 2015 1290R with 1300 miles on it. Not any more after reading this thread.

I'll definately be checking for play in the wheel. Does anyone know if KTM came up with a fix for the water in the hub issue for 2015 models? If not, I'm going to be double f**ked off with having to check for rusty bearings on a bike that has only done 3000 miles.

[steveberde]

No mine is not affected -
I have a 14 and have never had a single thing wrong with the bike - not to suggest that everyone with hub issues are imagining it I just find it hard to understand what the real deal is.

In speaking with KTM tech people in Ohio they have tested and tested for this issue and have stated (whether its true or not I have no idea) that they've never found a single case of hub issues EXCEPT when people have
taken the rear wheel off and failed to torque it to specs upon putting it back on

Thankfully mine has been fine and continues to be one of the best bike if not the best bike I've ever owned.

Steve

[Joe Biker]

I have a 14 and have my rear wheel torqued at every service.
Love this bike !!!!!

[REDTALE2000]

Steve, the "real deal" is that some of the earliest bikes had axles that were machined slightly undersize on the roller bearing's inner race surface.
Mine included.
Besides a noticeable klunk when doing the shake test, there is measurable movement at the wheel.
This is determined by measuring the axial freeplay at the rim edge with the wheel under no load. Dial gauge and fittings required.
Mine (as measured by dealer) measured just under the allowable limit and dealer refused to cover replacement under warranty (3 month old bike at that time)
I measured it at just over the allowable limit but didn't feel like forking over the $500 or $600. So I've kept an eye on it with occasional re-measurement and it hasn't changed a whit (I think that's a metric unit) in 65,000 miles.
Several peeps on here have had them replaced under warranty.
So your Ohio tech people are either ignorant or prevaricating or just never ran across a bad one themselves.

[steveberde]

Hi RedTale - I/m not doubting anything you've said - I only would ask why, at 3 months when the issue was discovered that the dealer refused to fix it under warranty. Absent the dealer fixing it why wouldn't he or you request a KTM rep who comes by every dealer (even in my remote neck of the woods) and have him inspect the bike

I've had issues with BMW bikes wherein the dealer refused to replace a rotor on a virtually new bike because its a "wear" item - yea a wear item with 300 miles on it. I requested when the local rep was gong to be at the dealer and met with the rep. He looked at the bike and checked out the rotor and instantly approved replacement.

Like you, I am instant that the guy that changes tyres on my bike always makes sure that its torqued to the proper specs.

At any rate I/m glad I haven't had the issue as I'd be otherworldly pissed

[michaeln]

My USA 1290 SDR is a 2016. No play that I am able to detect. 3200 miles.

[grommet]

So I had thought I'd have no trouble with this issue. I have a 2014 SDR. I got it with 3800 miles on it, Nov 2015. It now has 37000, and the hub started wobbling. Just a bit at first, I noticed going over the top of a small rise that led into a tight right hand corner. Throughout the rest of the day on my 400 mile ride, it got worse and worse, until while rolling with the clutch pulled in it continuously wobbles side to side and makes small directional changes each time.

I have yet to open it up, but will report back when I do.

[grommet]

So I opened up the hub, and found:

1. Rust in the right side bearing.
2. Striations on the bearing surface on the axle. From years ago when I studied bearing failures, the striations indicate the rollers have galled, and it can only get worse. I consider the axle to be unusable at this point.
3. Water sitting in the cavity in the bottom of the swingarm underneath the hub area.

I searched for new parts. I find an axle from a private seller on ebay. New bearings are commodity items and and can be sourced locally. Total price for the axle (plus shipping from the UK), the bearings, and the seals is >$300.

I also find a complete swingarm from a wrecked bike, including the swingarm, front bearings, hugger, chain guides, hub, axle, brake rotor and caliper, and sprocket drive. Everything but the sprocket. It's from a 2017 bike. $500. A bit more money but a lot more parts, and the newer hub/axle design included. I ordered it.

Today I did the swap. Found some very interesting, and somewhat troubling, things.

The newer swingarm has a drain hole in it. It was also full of pebbles and sand. Ruh Ro, Scooby. That's not good. I want to add a drain hole to mine, but I don't want stuff to be able to get in there.

Pics of the debris in the new swingarm:





How to add the drain hole but prevent dirt and stuff from getting in there? Perhaps a shield that would allow drainage but discourage entry of anything coming from the front? I come up with a thing sometimes referred to as a scupper. Apparently they use them a lot on small aircraft where vents need to be exposed to the airstream but can't let in water and bird parts.

So here's the result:

The new drain hole:






The scupper, from start to finish:

It started life as packaging for a tool from Lowes. I don't quite remember.



Reshaping to fit the SDR swingarm:












The installation: I cleaned the swingarm surface with alcohol, then used Quick JB Weld epoxy to affix it.






In the future I'll be keeping a much closer eye on this. Especially after any long rides or trailering in the rain.

By the way, the newer unit, even with the rocks and stuff, appeared to be completely dry inside. So the drain seems to work.