Steering dampers

[Varinn]

I know. This has been covered but most of the threads are old and most of the pictures are long gone.

Has anyone got any input to offer on the HyperPro linear dampers? I'm debating between the CSC and RSC. Cost isn't an issue but I'm at a loss of the pro's and cons of each. I don't mind a touch more resistance at low speed movements around town as I find the bars super easy to turn as it is and my old GSXR was factory damped and never bothered me. At the same time I don't want it to be outrageously stiff either.

I'm trying to combat a bit of an excessive bar wiggle when going through some sweepers on some of the local highways. I haven't had any serious tank slappers come up yet but the front end gets too loose for my liking when moving at speed and in some of the corners if I'm cruising quick it'll get a couple inches back and forth at the bar ends.

http://hyperpro.com/steering-dampers/

[Varinn]

Bump!

Nobody running aftermarket steering dampers?

[Willh]

Scott's/ohlins rotary

[Aphex]

IF I ran one it would more than likely be a Scott's rotary damper.

[Varinn]

What is the benefit of the rotary over an adjustable linear unit?

[Willh]

http://www.scottsonline.com/scotts.php

[NolaNomad]

I found a WP damper for $140.
Very happy with the extra control, would not run a SD with out it.

[Bermo KTM]

white power did it for me , expensive for what it is but well worth it compared to the stock one on my SDR

[Colonel_Klinck]

I have the Hyperpro RSC damper on my 1290, 1000x better than the shite OEM one. Have one on my track bike as well. Quality bit of kit.

[Varinn]

Klinck, have you had a chance to compare it to the more traditional linear dampers from Hyperpro?

How does for things like a light front wheel or a bit of deflection when there are minor changes in the pavement mid corner? I'm curious cause those are the main things I'm trying to tweak out a bit more so than the high speed tank slappers.

The Scotts damper seems nice, but honestly my biggest thing with it is I don't like how "in-your-face" it is being right up top on the bars. Big concern? No. But people like to play with obvious switches and stuff from time to time and it looks like it partially blocks the ignition switch or at least makes it more annoying to access from the seat.

[Colonel_Klinck]

[Varinn]

Appreciate the input! Got any pictures of yours installed?

[Colonel_Klinck]

No but slots straight on without having to adjust lock stops. 5 min to fit it. You do need to buy the fitting kit though as well.

[Varinn]

I'm going to place an order for the RSC tomorrow. Talked to a vendor here in N/A and verified the mount kit can be either black or gold, I want black. The linear is my preference just for being out of the way and the price works out to be a bit less than the rotary when you factor in the 75mm damper and the mount kit.

Appreciate all the input

[Aphex]

[crazyinp]

Anyone can post the link to the right one?

[Varinn]

I ordered them through a place called EPM Performance in NJ. Total cost came in at usd 496.05 plus shipping. No idea about the rest of their customer service yet, as they haven't even had time to ship yet. Just ordered 2 hours ago.

MK-KT09-T001 B Mounting kit for Superduke 990. Apparently available in black or gold. I chose black (the B at the end)
DS-075B-NP1 75mm RSC with black anodised finish

http://epmperf.com/hyperpro-motorcycle- ... y-control/

[Varinn]

So annoyingly the Hyperpro kit doesn't fit worth a damn. I'd be ok with losing a touch of my steering angle but it hit the bar mount so early in the rotation that on a right turn I can fit my finger between the factory lock bolt and the pad. Left turns are even worse.

The problem is made slightly worse by my lightly swollen tank by pushing the mount bracket forward in the rubber bushings by about 1-2mm but even holding it back while rotating doesn't gain much at all.

Also the bar clamp bracket hits the stock handlebars in almost every position except tilted fully forward beyond the scale marked on it. I had to add washers underneath to get 1mm clearance

https://imgur.com/a/C0aqg

[Aphex]

What a stupid ass set up.

[Colonel_Klinck]

[Varinn]

I think I got it. Was pulling the bars to test putting risers in to see if it helped with clearance before buying or machining a set but found that this thing is actually offset and not centered like I thought. PO must have spun the lower cradle 180° to pull the bars backwards or something cause it was offset towards the driver seat and eating up what little clearance I had for the damper. I'll button it up later when a buddy gets here cause he's always looking to learn a bit of bike mechanics.

EDIT: Yeah that was it. So dumb me from not noticing the cradle had been reversed last night. Tolerance is still super tight and I had to adjust the left side steering lock but it clears mostly ok now. Swings far enough to use the steering lock in the ignition. Still have issues with the thing being too close to the bar on the left so I've shimmed it up and added a spacer to compensate the height on the rod end itself.

Gonna have to adapt to having the bars sit however much forward its moved. Been debating new bars anyways though so not a big deal.

[Aphex]

I still can't believe they charge $185 for that mounting kit.

[Varinn]

I agree with you on that one... I won't say I was impressed with the mounting kit, doesn't look fantastic but if it performs I can do wheelies past the hate

[Colonel_Klinck]

[Varinn]

Roger, 990.

Got out for a bit of a boot with the thing installed yesterday, it's surprisingly effective at even low settings. I found that setting it on 4-5 clicks was more than enough for what I encountered yesterday. Anything above that and it really starts to impact bar turning a bit too aggressively.

I got a couple good lifts of the front end before the rain set in and found it's much more stable with my piss poor skills bringing the bike back down so I'm happy with that side of things.

I might remove the o-rings that go between the hardware and the hiem joint links (especially the tank mount bolt) cause you really need to crank it down to get it to fully seat the tank bolt and it adds a ton of uneccessary resistance to the movement of it. Not really a great setup. I might be able to make it work with another spacer somewhere in the stack though. Might look at it later. I'm not bothered by removing the o-rings. I rarely ride in the rain and I don't mind dropping a dab of oil on it when I do my chain services.